World of Warcraft: FAQ

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* Game:	        World of Warcraft         *
* Type:		FAQ                       *
* For:		PC                        *
* Author:	Brad Russell "TheGum"     *
* Email:  *
* Web:  *

Version 0.5 - basic info ready, could be a little more to finish.

Version 1.0 - not sure what would be 100% complete, but here is what I got,
and it's still rough and unorganized.

Version 1.4 - updated some stuff, fixed up other stuff, and added new stuff.

Table Of Contents
Use quick find (Ctrl + F) and type in the code or level. 

	Section:		Code:

1. A Brief Foreword
2. Controls			( CON2222 )
3. Starter Tips			( TIPS333 )
4. The Guide			( FAQ4444 )

	Realm and Character Info
	Horde versus Alliance
	Travel Plans
	Secondary Profession Tips
	Item Bindings
	Item Management
	Smart-Character Creations
	Getting Help
	Killing Stuff
	Economy & Auction House
	Level 80 Stuff

5. Classes

	Death Knight

6. PvP

	PvP Tips
	Battlegrounds & Wintergrasp

7. Author Info / Copyright

* 1. A Brief Foreword                                                         *

Warcraft is a beast. You must seriously consider if you're ready to take it
on as if you were committing to banned substances. Levels, achievements, 
heavy multiplayer, many different builds to tinker with, a full economy, 
gear with no end, and just tons of things to collect for vanity, you really
have no hope of having any other entertainment if you start playing WoW.

Yes, this game is extremely fun. If you like anything in gaming you will 
find something to like in this game, and no one can argue with the strength
of the multiplayer, which is essentially 1/4 of the game unless you just love
running dungeons and raids. 

Anyway, as far as this guide, probably the reason why it has taken so long to
get out is not because it's taken this long to make it, it's just that I don't
know where it ends, much in the same way the game does not end. So I just 
choose now as the finishing point for my first version. There is a ton more 
to come, and I'm sure more than enough tips and flames (mostly from noob


PS - now I can kinda get back into my RE5 guide.

* 2. Controls ( CON2222 )                                                     *

Really not much to put here. Your standard WASD controls, and then under 
Key Bindings in your options (press ESC) you can move all the tabs and pans
to certain keys. 

I will also mention that it is worth thinking about buying a special keyboard
with a game pad, not a controller but just some board with stacked numbers.
I say this because you have about 20 abilities, and on a standard keyboard 
you'll only have reasonable use for six of the number keys. Of course you
probably only need to keystroke six, but it's something to think about. 
Personally I prefer using mouse clicks for abilities, but to each their own.

* 3. Starter Tips ( TIPS333 )                                                 *

#1. Right clicking stuff in your bag uses them. Such as eating, equipping, 
using key items, and so on. It's also how you can track objectives.

#2. The shift key and holding the mouse or clicking something usually does 
something. Shift + number changes bars, holding shift over an item compares
with what you are wearing, clicking a chat name will display where that 
person is, and so forth. 

#3. For the fashion crowd, Ctrl clicking something not equipped will display it
on you.

#4. Under options you have many things to change, such as display, user 
interface, video, and audio settings. Under display you can set it so you
don't see your helm or cloak. You can also change the number of action bars
to set up your abilities.

#5. Items that have white names are usually useful in some way, enough so that
it may be worth checking what it's for online on thottbot and such. But items
in grey can always be tossed, not picked up, or sold for a small price to 
vendors. Grey items are of no use to anyone.

#6. No one needs the ammo pouches or quivers anymore thanks to a patch, but 
don't think that because you have a gun you need an ammo pouch. Just fill your 
bag slots with normal bags and put your ammo in there; if a hunter then you
still don't need an ammo bag because you get the speed bonus without one. You
also don't need to carry special bags that carry certain items, those are 
probably best to put in your bank.

#7. Though you may think you can sell anything you aren't using at the moment,
you may find you need those same items later, so to a degree it may be better
to hold onto certain mats for a time.

#8. Items of green quality and up will bind to your character once you put 
them on. If you are an enchanter then you can disenchant them, but everyone
else can only sell them to vendors once they are replaced.

#9. There are two useful ways to find things without asking other players. 
Guards in cities will tell you the locations of certain people and even give
you a map marker for them. Then there is a small tab over your mini map that 
you can toggle to locate any number of things, including stuff you can track
if you are a hunter, herbalist, or miner.

#10. Figure out how you want to use your abilities. Aside from knowing how
they work, you have two ways to use them: clicking them on the action bars or
through key bindings. I started on key bindings, but that limited my scope of
thinking how to use all of them. It is nice to have some of your more powerful
and most-used abilities on a few keys, but for most cases you'll use more of
your abilities through clicking them on action bars. Under Options and 
Interface you can add action bars all around the screen.

#11. Find out early what direction you want to take your character in. Randomly
buliding your toon early will lead to wasted money and maybe getting buffs for
stats you shouldn't be using.

#12. Keep an eye out for item bindings and which hand they must go in. A few
items can only be held in the main hand, so never get two of such weapons.

#13. Check the auction house for glyphs for your class of character. Even if
the glyphs are above your level but at a good price, consider picking them up
if you see that ability being useful to you. You put on glyphs in your talent
page and the nodes open as you level.

#14. Be sure to change your video settings so that the game runs smoothly.
Beautiful graphis should give way to smooth frame rates and less lag, both 
of which can get monitored on the computer icon on your tool bar.

#15. If you lag, meaning there is a delay in your connection, think about
getting a hunter, caster, or lock so that you don't have to know exactly where
your enemy is or be within 5 yards in order to damage him.

#16. Always watch what a new piece of equipment is offering. Sometimes a better
quality item may offer more things, but not always does it boost your base 
stats. It's all situational, but I like boosting base stats rather than 
special stats like crit, hit, haste, rating and so on.

#17. If you don't figure it out, you get more abilities by going to a class
trainer. Ask a guard or use the mini map tracking to find them in towns/cities.

* 4. The FAQ  ( FAQ4444 )                                                     *

Realm and Character Info


For one you must pick a realm and you will have to stay on this realm for all
of your characters. I believe you can make 10 in total. I tell you this because
if you get on WoW because of friends you must know their or you'll never be
able to interact with them.

You can have 10 characters, also called Toons, on each realm, with a total of
50 characters across all realms. But keep in mind there are PvE, PvP,
role-playing, and PvP RP realms.

Here is a link to where you can check the status of each realm to help decide
where you want to play, because high population realms require waiting times
to get in, but low-pop realms could pose different problems, such as one
faction having a big advantage:

Here is also the link to check the status of realms:

As far as picking a character, you can make 10, so it's not like you have to
get it right on your first try. But if you don't like your character, be it 
looks or skills or play-style of the class, then feel free to get a another 
fired up. Any toons on the other faction, regardless of server, cannot 
receive mail from your other toons on the other faction - so if you get your 
main and want other characters on the other faction you can make them on any
server because they are basically on their own anyway.


I will tell you that this game is based on only a few play styles. I would say
tanking, nuking, healing, rogue, and hunter are your styles of play. Tanking
is done by warriors, Death Knights, and several other classes. Nuking is done
by mages, warlocks, and other classes with high burst damage. Healing is done 
by priests and other hybrid classes. Rogue is your stealth style, but also
your melee and DPS class, with melee and DPS possible with other sources as
well. Hunters are a unique class in that they are the only ones to use ranged
weapons to any true effect. And of course there are many hybrids, such as the
druid, who can do a little bit of a lot of these.

I will lay out a somewhat simple outline for each class here:

Warrior - you tank, take damage, and deal damage, that's about it. Pick this to
	make WoW a simpler game.
Paladin - can do a bit of everything, but is mainly an offensive healer.
Mage - spells and buffs, but basically no armor.
Warlocks - spells and minions. Relies on leeching opponent's health.
Hunter - pet and faster ranged attack speed.
Rogue - stealth, poisons, burst and sustained damage.
Shaman - hybrid based mostly on magic. Can even do melee to good effect.
Druid - beast forms and can do about everything, but weak armor.
Priest - healer/protector, but can dish out damage if you wish (will be highly
	sought after for groups, trust me)
Death Knight - a tank with potential to have a pet or heal itself. No reason to
	not have a DK.

*NOTE: I hear that Mages, Shaman, and Druids can have pets at some point as
well, though I'm not entirely sure how.*

All classes are limited in what weapons and armor they can use, and some can
use more armor at higher levels. And all classes have three branches of
talents to follow which determine how your character will play, and you can
even change these later.

Lastly you must choose a race, or firstly, but the last thing I cover. Your
race provides you a few special abilities and perks, and also limit what 
class you can choose. One key thing to keep in mind is where you start. All
races start in the same area, and as far as Alliance the most popular are the
humans. And of the starting Alliance zones, the gnome/dwarf zone is tougher 
than the night elf or human zones.


Also known as attributes, but no matter what you call them they are what the 
game boils down to, your gear, leveling, gold, professions, talents, and time
are all intended to help boost these to as high as possible.

They break down to a number of categories, and some boost others and/or do
the same things.

You can look at all your stats in the character pan, and under your nice 
profile you can see a few panels you can change.

To test your stats you can either do live sampling in the field using an 
addon called recount, or go beat up on a test dummy found throughout cities. 
Or just know what you are doing is working for what you want to do.

Base Stats

*NOTE: Pretty much all of these will apply to your pet too, if you have one.*

Strength - Melee attack power. 2 for Warriors, DKs, feral Druids, and Paladins.
	1 for everyone else. Improves block value if you can hold a shield,
	and boosts DKs' parry rating.
Agility - Attack power, critical rating, armor, and dodge. Ranged attack power
	for warriors, hunters, and rogues. Melee attack power for hunters,
	rogues, shamans, and cat druids. But everyone gets the crit, armor, 
	and dodge boosts.
Stamina - 10 health points for each, except the first 20 which only give 1.
Intellect - 15 mana points, the first 20 just give 1. Also improves spell 
	critical strike. And can be used to fastly level up weapon skills.
Spirit - Increases health and mana regeneration. The graphs of how much it 
	helps in relation to your level will dip as you level, but even the
	caster classes can find some foods and potions to regen much faster.
	Meaning that unless you have skills or talents that rely on spirit, 
	you have no reason to get more.


Weapon - Higher weapon skill means better chance to hit and crit, while 
	reducing the chance your attack is missed, blocked, dodged, or parried.
Defense - Decreases crits and hits.

Basically if all 80s have max in both of these skills, there is nothing gained.
	It's mostly a way to make players and characters of different levels 
	have something to show for it.


Melee is used by any class that must be next to a target to attack it, but
is also the same for hunters.

Weapon damage - Simply how much damage a weapon can do, a range.
Speed/haste - Speed is how fast a weapon is used, and haste can reduce this 
	time by a percentage.
Attack Power - Increases you damage done, and contributed to by strength and
	agility for hunters, rogues, and cat druids. Same as ranged.
Critical Strike - Your chance to land a more powerful attack, increased with
	a better rating and through agility.
Hit - A percentage increase of your attacks that will hit, improved with hit
Armor Penetration - Reduces the opponents armor by a percentage.
Expertise - Reduces your chance to be parried/blocked, different than a miss.


These are the stats for casters, but all classes have spells.

Spells are the things with icons that you click to do something. All classes
have spells, but melee classes would not benefit as much if only their 
spells were increased while their auto-attacks were not.

Spell Power - Increases damage and healing done.
Spell Hit - Same as hit rating, increases you spell's chance to hit.
Spell Crit - Same as critical strike rating.
Spell Penetration - How much a spell ignores that resistance, not armor.
Mana Regen - Regeneration of mana in and out of combat, with out of combat 
	always being much faster.


This is mainly for tank specs.

Dodge - Chance to dodge melee attacks, but not ranged.
Parry - Chance to parry a melee attack, turning a hit into a failed attack.
Block - Chance to block a melee or ranged attack with a shield, but only 
	reducing some damage.
Block Value - Increases how much damage is blocked from a successful block.
Defense - Increases your defense skill.
Armor - Decreases physical damage.
Resistance - Decreases magic damage.
Resilience - Decreases crit strikes chance against you, and reduces damage 
	over time effects. Found mostly on PvP gear.
Health Regen - How much health is restored in and out of combat. Much more
	out of combat.


This is really only for level 80 characters or twinks. Everyone else should 
just quest and spend the least at the AH for equipment.

Visit and there you can check a ton of stuff. 

At the armory you can bring up your character and have everything you would 
need to know right there for you online. Most useful is the ability to find
upgrades for your gear. Next to all the items you have equipped, if you view 
through the armory, you can press the arrow and find all the better gear for 
that item slot. Write the ones you think are in reach, research if the location
is not easy to discern, and set out for them. Don't go for the very best, just
for anything better than what you got.


There are several settings I would suggest changing.

For video settings feel free to adjust to what you will be doing in the game 
and your computer. If you plan to just quest, do a dungeon every now and then,
you can probably get away with medium settings. If you plan to do PvP, raid,
and spend any time in the city of Dalaran, set your settings lower.

For your interface I suggest putting up all the actions bars. The right side 
bars can be for your professions, about six of your most-used spells, mounts,
and commonly used items like potions or quest items.

There is also a setting to move the objectives panel. The tracked objectives 
by default appear to the right, and by selecting to edit it you can drag and 
drop it. As of a recent patch, tracked objectives with items will have those
items by the tracking for easy use. Also as of the patch the actual items or
things in the field will display as such when you mouse over them.

You can also set up so that your threat percentage and enemy casting bars are
displayed. The both are near the enemy portrait, so you know if you are drawing
aggro on the thing, and if it's casting anything so you can get out of the way
or interrupt it.

Finally, you can also choose to not display your helm and/or cloak. This is 
nice for goofy helms, and sometimes your tabard looks better than your cloak.


We will go into the basics of all the classes, but not too far, just a slightly
deeper look at each class.

Here is a link to check talent trees and see how you may want to build your 


You play off a "rage" bar where you get more the more you fight. Unlike mana 
and energy you build up rage, so it takes time to use abilities, instead of 
the abilities ready to go to start.

You play off of three battle stances, can wear all armor eventually, and can
hold shields. Go for gear that buffs your strength and stamina.


Mages specialize in what we call "burst" damage, or "nuking," meaning you cast
a spell for one big hit, rather than getting the same damage out of a ton of 
hits. They provide only weak elements of protection, with turning enemies into
sheep and such being the main defense.

You can also create portals for fast travel among cities. Focus on intellect,
spirit, stamina, and anything involving spells. You can only wear cloth, so
if an enemy gets in your face you are most likely going to die unless you have
the abilities to escape.


You will be tops in melee combat, as you can dual-wield and create high DPS,
which is damage per second, meaning your output of damage is unmatched in 
most cases. So long as you are alive the enemy is losing health.

Your main tool is stealth, meaning you are invisible to same-level enemies 
until you come into contact or they are at a much higher level than you. 
Through stealth you can choose several methods to begin a fight, as well as 
solo much of the game with no outside help. 

Your weakness is that your armor is eaten up by damage. But by getting items
to buff your agility and stamina you can stay in a battle for a fair amount of
time, and several of your abilites and talents can ensure survival even in
losing battles.

If you want to play alone for most of the game except dungeons, go rogue.


Hunters are the second class to allow for easily playing alone. This is the 
only class to use ranged weapons to any effect as they fire much faster. Of
course ranged combat is possible because of a pet, which acts likes a mini-
tank for you. 

You need to fish and cook to get food for your pet, unless you are okay buying
the food from select vendors or the auction house. Unhappy pets like to dismiss
and are not effective, content pets give no damage bonus, and well-fed pets
deal 25% more damage. You can see their happiness level under their life bar
and check their diet under the pet tab in the character window.

Against the environment you can rely on your mana pool and ranged attacks as 
your pet and abilities can keep the enemies at bay. In player versus player 
you could lean more to agility and stamina, just like a rogue, as the other 
players will not attack your pet. At level 40 you can use mail armor.


Druids allow for shapeshifting of animal forms to determine abilities. For
the most part a druid can do anything: rogue, tank, mage, heal. And of course
choosing talents down one path over the others can allow for being almost the
equal of the appropriate class. 

For groups the druid, like all hybrids, can replace a downed component of the
group. You can only wear cloth or leather, but your forms allow for different


Yet another hybrid class with more emphasis on healing and protection of other
players. Of course there is also the possibility of focusing on melee combat
as well, but you cannot wield ranged weapons at all. You can wear plate armor
at level 40.

I feel the heal component is too strong and a bit cheap, as there is almost no
way to solo a paladin in PvP with my rogue, hunter, or DK.


Yes, your main goal is to keep your group alive. But that doesn't mean you are
helpless, you can yield powerful shadow magic. Focus on stamina, intellect,
spirit, and any spell buffing equipment. Of course you only have cloth armor,
so you have to keep yourself alive through your own spells.

You must watch out for the healing aggro you may pull in PvE.


This class is for the most part Horde-only, as only Draenei can be shamans
for the Alliance. Shamans can focus on melee, magic, or healing depending on
the talent tree progression. You are limited to leather and cloth until 40
where you can wear mail armor.

This is probably the best class in the game, the most balanced at least, while
requiring not a lot of micro-management of abilities. 


This class can be one of the most powerful if played correctly. Warlocks are 
mostly a mage in dark form, but beyond that they rely on stamina to act as 
intellect in that stamina can be converted into mana. Aside from high stamina
and powerful spells a warlock also possesses a minion to aid in battle. Of 
course warlocks have no melee game to speak of and can only wear cloth. As
stated above, focus on stamina and the other spell buffs.

Death Knight

With Wrath installed and once you get a level 55 character you can create a 
Death Knight, or DK, in any race. 

The training takes a while to get through, but you emerge with all blue
equipment and are probably a level away from 59 and ready to hit the battle-

You have three paths, and I've been down two. From what I gather, frost is just
going all tank; unholy allows for a pet and some nice abilities, but most of
those abilities have little benefit for the micro-management involved; while
Blood seems the only wise choice with self-healing and strong, passive 
abilities that let you just fight.

Horde versus Alliance


Humans, Night Elves, Dwarves, Gnomes, and Draenei are Alliance, or good. Orcs,
Forsaken, Tauren (bulls), Trolls, and Blood Elves are Horde, or bad. Though you
may find it interesting to find out that Tauren and Forsaken are not actually
all-evil, and quite possibly none of the Horde is "evil."

You won't run into this battle of good and evil very often in PvE realms
(player versus environment), but it's more than half the game in PvP realms
(player vs player). 

There is no difference in which you choose other than the decor and what kind
of other players you see all the time, but the quests don't vary too much
until about level 30 as the whole world opens up, both continents, and quests
are similar and in the same areas for both factions.

PvP vs PvE

I will say that the background of the horde classifies them as "brute force
with small numbers." It makes sense because I'll bet most WoW players start 
with the Alliance and then make a horde character after. But don't be shocked
if you choose a low-medium population realm and find the other faction is 

For chat you can't understand the other faction.

In PvE it's you and the game, with you deciding when to interact in combat with
the other faction's players. This is the "normal" gameplay if you are just 
starting to play Warcraft.

The next step is PvP realms in which you can be attacked at any moment. Since 
this is not the start of World of Warcraft there are tons of level 80's
in any realm you choose to play. Basically I'm just warning you that unless 
level 80's from your faction are protecting the area you play in, expect to 
be attacked. Rogues and druids are probably the best choice in PvP since you
can disappear when needed. But again, I suggest you play on a PvP realm after
you've played on a PvE realm for some time.

*NOTE: Since realms are not connected you can't make a 80 on one and support
a character in a different realm. You also cannot support a character of yours
on the other faction, even in on the same realm. Nor can you befriend the other
side, no matter how much they may help you.*

*NOTE: You're subject to "ganking" in PvP, which means people can feast on low
level characters, camp at graveyards, camp your body, kill quest givers, 
rogues can stealth you at any moment, and so on. This is why PvP is basically
like playing WoW on HARD, and why you need to play on the PvE first so your
questing in PvP will take less time. Nevermind you can put WoW on HARDER if
you play the less-popular faction on a PvP realm.*

*NOTE: I believe from level 1-20 your PvP flag is not on in PvP realms.*

You can make a DK on any realm once one character is 55 and you have WotLK
installed, you can make level 55 Death Knights on a PvP realm, but of course
that isn't a huge advantage, you just avoid early game PvP.

Universal PvP

There are battlegrounds in which you basically play multiplayer against the
other faction. There is one you can enter from level 10, Warsong Gulch. These
are all accessible from a "battle room" area in a major city, or in the region
where the battleground is "taking place". They work from groups 1-9, meaning
level 11's and 19's play in one game, 21's and 29's. Of course the 0's play
in the correct group as well, with the exceptions being 60's being the last
level allowed in Alterac and 80's having their own grounds. Basically you want
to be at least near the last accepted level for your grouping to not be a 
detriment to your team. 

There are also arenas in select areas, or entered like a battleground, in which
you can fight in groups with near-level players. Finding these in the wild
you enter PvA, player versus all, in which it's a free-for-all.

In PvE there can be brief instances of PvP outside battlegrounds. Dueling 
is a solo combat with anyone that can be asked and declined by anyone. The
other time is when a group of the other faction storm a town or city, or 
even a single character, though rarely. When you see someone of the other 
faction with their PvP flagged, meaning their name color is changed, then you
can attack if you wish. Attacking a PvP turns on yours, as well as attacking 
NPC's of the other faction.

*NOTE: The honor system rewards more for killing like-level or higher level
characters. You get no honor for killing lowly players.*

For PvE you'll mainly encounter small bands of enemies entering a city to cause
minor damage, essentially just seeing how long they can go. Rarely, and you'll
want to at least watch these, will a raiding army of the other faction enter
a city and bolt for the king. This is because aside from the fun of it, they
are trying to get the achievement for killing the leaders of the factions.

One last note, if you're on PvE and get killed by another player you can wait
5 minutes in ghost form so that your PvP flag clears.


This is concerning the PvP aspect of Warcraft, no matter your realm. Are the 
factions balanced in skill, numbers, and classes?

No, and for some obvious reasons, others not so obvious to an Alliance player
such as myself. I can assure you that 10 Horde players can defeat 10 Alliance
players of the same level and skill. I think a part of it is a tiny perk for
Blood Elves where it says they can sometimes gain extra runic power, mana,
and energy. Aside from that they have more races that can be Shaman, so that
allows for extra healing.

The not-so-obvious reason is that probably most Alliance players are new to
WoW, and while there may be just as many good Alliance as Horde players, the
fact that there are more not so good Alliance players means those players 
dilute battlegrounds. It's also reasonable to assume that if people do start
on Alliance, that means that when they do create a Horde toon they will know
their stuff better. Finally, there may be an element of "us against them" with
Horde players. I don't think the last reason is as true as I may think, but
there are more twink Horde than Alliance, and most likely have a little help.


I would say have some faction pride, but I would rather say go Alliance, so 
I'll say neither. 

One interesting thing that bugs me is that these factions must be at war with
each other. In Outland and Northrend you see every camp has a mixture of the 
factions and races. Other than betting that paladin is the most broken class,
I would say that at some point you could make any race for either faction.

Travel Plans

Humans start near Stormwind, and SW is connected to Ironforge by a tram, and 
IF is the city of Dwarves and Gnomes. Night Elves are to the west, but they
are reached via the left-most ship in SW Harbor, or SW via the port in
Auberdine for the Elves.

Once in Auberdine humans and little people only need to take the other ship
to reach Rut'theran Village (or Rut for short) and then step into the red light
to reach the Night Elf capital of Darnassus. 

So essentially once you reach the major city of one race you can access all
the others. And you'll want to learn all the weapons you can from each major
city's trainer. All weapon trainers are near weapon shops or areas of the 


Forsaken start near the Undercity, and a zeppelin will take you to and from
Orgrimmar. Then the only way to get to Thunder Bluff is by a flight path from
the Orc capital or by foot.

So Horde players actually have to hoof it to and from the bull town, which 
takes a while but isn't too dangerous.


There are trainers for your class and professions. Simply ask a guard and they
can tell you where to find your trainers. There are multiple trainers in the
land and sometimes many in one area.

Class trainers allow you to gain abilities and power them up. It's not that 
every level allows new abilities or ranks, usually every other level.

Profession trainers allow you to maximize your professions and gain new 
things to create. They operate in units of fives, tens at the most. You gain
skillup points by using your profession, according to the colors, and then 
visit the trainer to make new things.

The trainers for gathering professions only allow your maximum skill level to
increase or some other refining process.

You'll need Burning Crusade with your professions at 300, 375 for Wrath, and to
a max of 450 as of Wrath.


Professions are your way of contributing to the economy of Warcraft, but 
are not required in any way. Professions may actually slow your progress more
than you realize, but in the end-game portion they will pay off with highly
useful and high demand items you can make. And if you are just on the 
gathering end of the jobs then you only have money to gain, but possibly not
as much and for more time spent.

*NOTE: To use a profession you just click the spellbook icon and then click
the icon of choice. I like to hot bar my professions, potions, and other 
seldom-used items to the right. You can add action bars through the options 

You can have any of two main professions, and everyone can have the same sub-
professions. Here are the material professions, or "mats" for materials used
in the production professions:

Herbalism - collect herbs from plants.
Mining - pick away at deposits.
Skinning - rip the flesh from dead animals.

Here are the producing professions, where you turn the mats into something:

Alchemy - turn plants into potions.
Blacksmithing - create weapons and armor from ore.
Enchanting - disenchant rare items into things to buff other items. Tailoring
	is the best second profession as most of the green items can be made
	purely from killing humanoids.
Engineering - make things out of other things. Mainly ore.
Leatherworking - turn skins into leather armor, mail armor later. Also some
	armor kits to enhance all armor.
Tailoring - make clothes out of cloths. Cloths are found off dead humanoids,
	but to a lesser degree you need some leathers.
Jewelcrafting - turn ore into stuff. Burning Crusade needed.
Inscription - create glyphs and buff scrolls. The least popular but probably
	the most profitable. Need herbs.

Here are the sub-professions everyone can have:

Fishing - gather fish.
Cooking - make food for buffs and health.
First Aid - the most useful where you turn cloth into bandages.
Riding - go faster, but costs a ton.

Obviously the gathering and producing professions go with each other. Like it
would be very difficult to take on alchemy and engineering because you would 
have no way to get the mats for either unless you find them in small quantities
from dead enemies or shell out the dough at the auction house or trades. Keep
in mind that mats are always expensive on average, with the rare cheap auction
for high-demand mats.

Only enchanters have no true collecting counterpart, as all you have to do is
find green or higher items like anyone else does. Tailoring also requires none
of the gathering professions, so those two solo professions are made for each
other, as you can sew up items to disenchant!

The only truly useful sub-profession is first aid, where fishing and cooking
require a lot of secondary effort, and first aid can be the only way some 
classes can heal themselves consistently. 

Hunters really must take on fishing and cooking to feed their pet.

Early on it's cheap to add professions, so you can pick up a few, see what they
require and drop for whatever you may want instead.

Late in the professions all of them will require the others to advance. This 
does not mean you can't advance or need to take them up, it just means you'll
need to rely on other players, the auction house, or your guild to help you
acquire what you need.

Secondary Profession Tips

Now we will go a bit further into how the professions work. First are lesser
professions because everyone can use those.

First Aid

The reason to get this is to make bandages. You can't use them while fighting
or while doing anything, you must be still. They allow you to not have
to wait for your health to regain, and put your cloths to good use.

Just like tailoring, making bandages relies on you getting dropped cloth from
enemies, usually humanoids or in chests. And that's it, find the cloth, locate
the first aid trainers, and make bandages. You'll need to find the trainers
to go beyond the base skill max. 


Cooked food does more than just heal you between battles, some foods can give
you temporary buffs. Cooking is totally optional, but it's a must for 
hunters to make food for your pet.

You must be near some source of heat to make food, and there is always one by
the cooking trainers, but you can find others and can make your own fire.

You start by just making bread using the cooking supplies, even through the
yellow colors until bread is green. Don't forget to pick up and use the
few recipes you get so you can turn things like spider legs and meat into 
cooked food, which are at least more valuable to sell. It's simple enough to
start cooking, but keeping your skill up requires a little extra work for a 
little extra benefit.


Fishing does two things: get fish to cook and sometimes pick up rare items.

You fish by finding a trainer, buying a rod from a vendor, equipping the rod,
and then clicking the fishing icon in your spell book. With the lure in the
water you just wait for it to shake and then right click it to try and catch.
Best to be in a quiet place and the sound turned up, and always have your 
finger ready to push at any moment.

As you level up there are more fishing supplies to buy that help you in your
efforts. Remember, to best take advantage of fishing you need to pick up 
cooking so you don't eat raw fish. 

*NOTE: Hunters need food for their pets. You check the pet tab to see their 
diet and then you can know what to focus on. Remember that the better quality
of food the more happiness gained when you feed it.*


Riding allows you to move faster. Most of the time spent in Warcraft is on 
getting from one place to the next. So any speed advantage reduces the time 
spent to level up and reach end-game content. 

To ride you need to be at level 30, then locate your race's trainer, and
finally spend about 40 gold on buying a mount and getting the training. As of
now you can buy any mount from any race.

I believe warlocks and paladins can summon their own mount, and engineers can
make them at higher levels. But the upper level of mounts require hundreds of
gold and level 60.

*NOTE: You can buy spurs to equip to your boots, and find the carrot on a stick
to increase speed. The carrot is obtained by visiting Mirage Raceway in 
Thousand Needles, getting the quest to kill the Zilla monster (I forget it's
name), and going into Zul'Farrak and killing him at the pool.*


Talents are things you can advance into once you are level 10, the icon will be
on your action bar. With every level up you gain a talent point. With this you
can advance up (technically down) any of the three talent trees. All levels of
the tree require 5 spent in the previous levels of the same tree.

All classes have three different talent trees meant to guide your character to
an end where they are better at one talent set than the others. Since you start
at 10 and can end at 80 there are 70 talent points to spread around. Keep in 
mind that original end-game talents required 40 points. So now you can get a 
decent end skill while advancing fairly high up the other trees. But of course
there are higher level talents added to each tree, but you can still reach the
new ends. It's your choice to go up one tree alone or spread around the points
to get at least a few of the other options.

An example is that as a rogue I started up the stealth tree, but then took to
the combat tree, with only a few points in the finishing move tree. As a DK
I spent 30+ in blood, 10 in unholy, and the rest in frost, and I plan to 
focus on blood from here on out with an eye on somehow getting that ghoul from
unholy. As a hunter I have all points in marksmanship, with I believe like two
points in some other tree (not the first one).

Some trees lead to new abilities, and most talents have different ranks. 
Usually the ranked talents require multiple points to get complete 100%
effect of the talent, or at least the best of it.

Starting Over

It's wise to pick abilities wisely to start, but if not then you simply need a 
gold to cancel all your talents and get all the points back. You do this by 
visiting your class trainer, selecting the unlearn talents option, and then
paying the gold. You get all your points back and can spend them as you wish.
Keep in mind that ranks of your learned abilities through the talent tree will
stay. So if you get the ability you learned in the talent tree back you will
get the ranks you bought from the trainer.

You can unlearn your talents as much as you like, but it gets more and more 
expensive, so try to get it right with as few of tries as possible.

Don't forget that purchasing glyphs may also affect how you obtain talents.


The color scale goes: gray, white, green, yellow, orange, red, blue, purple, or
at least as far as I can tell. This applies to skills, items, and quests.

Skills only operate on the gray, green, yellow, orange scale. Gray means it's
easy and awards you no skillup points. Green means it should be easy so you
will rarely skillup. Yellow gives you a 60% chance to skillup, and oranges will
always skill you up. Your skills usually work in 5's or 10's, meaning you
must get 5 or 10 skill points in order to move onto the next set of things to

*NOTE: weapon skills and lockpicking maxes only move up by five as you level.*

Items go on gray, white, green, blue, purple, and the ultra-rare, end-game 
orange items. Gray is broken so you can toss it. White is normal and not very
good. Greens are where you should be at for the most part as they are better 
than normal and give nice little buffs. Blues are that next tier but will also
be hard to come by. You get blues either at the auction house, a reward for a 
big quest, or very rarely in a drop. Purples are super hard to find but by the
time you get to the end game stuff you will probably get a few. There are also
purples as rewards for battleground success at level 60. Oranges are things I
haven't seen.

*NOTE: Don't forget that if you hit battlegrounds hard, you can visit the 
reward house to buy nice items and mounts. This is different from the 
quartermasters at the zones of the battles. Like Alterac Valley, you can hit
these places to buy an epic mount at level 60.*

Quests work on a gray, green, yellow, and red scale. Gray means it gives only a
fraction of the experience upon completion. Green means you have only a limited
time until your level is too high and the quest is almost worth dropping, but
you should make an effort to clear your greens. Yellow means you probably can
do the quest on your own, and you get the proper experience for turning it in.
Red means you should not do the quest, but completing it gives more EXP than

There are also gray, green, yellow, red, skull, and ?? levels of enemies. 
Gray means killing that enemy yields no EXP, green a little, yellow the 
standard amount, and red more. Skull and ?? enemies probably require a raid 
or are just not killable on your own or through normal means.

Gray doesn't mean to toss the item, thing, or not do the skill, it just means 
you're not getting the most out of it. Some gray quests should be finished just
so you can keep the quest link going. Gray items can be sold, and at higher
levels they are worth at least a couple of flights worth of silver. And of
course a lot of gray skills will be useful far beyond skilling you up.


There are many different types of items, all with their own usefulness. Of 
course you have your equips, such as weapons and armor, but also jewelry 
and shirts. Then you have your support items, such as your hearthstone, 
skinning knife, poisons, and so on, the things you will keep no matter what.
Next are the foods and waters to replenish health and mana. You'll also collect
mats (materials) of both directly useable items like leather as well as the 
stuff you don't need, such as for cooking, other professions, or just gray 
items that are meant to be sold for a small amount of coin. 

If you hit a dungeon and get blues, for the most part, those will be sold. I
know that very rarely have I even used dungeon drops or even quest rewards 
beyond a few levels as sometimes drop are more useful. The first quests in
Hellfire at level 58 and the Northrend quests at level 68 were the only times
I recall rewards being very useful. Even the dungeon drops in Hellfire didn't 
last as long as some of the quest rewards.

There are also a lot of quest items you'll gather that will take up space. 
These can either be used during the quest or collected items to fulfill the
quest, but since they take up space you will want to hold onto these and get
them finished as soon as possible. 

Item Bindings

There are 4 types of item bindings in this game:

None - Usually all white quality items, mats, potions, and poor equipment will
	have no restrictions.
Bind On Equip (BoE) - These are usually all greens you find in the wild. Any
	BoE can be sold at the AH, given to your guild, or traded. Once you
	put it on you cannot put in the AH or give to anyone else. Basically
	your only option after you find better equipment is to sell your old
	gear, unless maybe you want to hold onto them for options.
Bind On Pickup (BoP) - These are the worst because they are the rewards from
	for killing bosses or completing quests and you cannot give them to 
	anyone else. If you can't use them then all you can do is sell them
	to a vendor.
Soulbound - Similar to BoP's, only these are soulbound items from quests or
	found in the wild. Usually just unique or quest-specific items. Items
	also turn Soulbound once you put on a BoE.

There are also unique items, of which you can only equip one. I believe you
can equip multiple items such as two weapons or two rings of green quality, but
I don't think you can have two blues of the same name equipped, but for sure
you can't equip two of the same uniques.

The purpose of bindings is so that you can't do two things: have a hand-me-
down system for any alternates, and to prevent players from farming boss 
drops for gold. All dungeons usually have one boss drop that can be sold and is
always there, but the rest of the assured boss drops are either to be used or
sold to a vendor.

Item Management


Through your early quests you'll get your 6-8 slot bags. One thing to keep in
mind is that only hunters need a quiver or ammo bag. NONE of the other classes
should waste a bag slot on an ammo container. 

Early on it may also be cheaper to buy your bags from vendors. And from 10 to
14 slot bags you should be able to get them cheaper from the AH than vendors.
16 slot bags are found rarely in the wild, so you those and up are bought 
only at the AH. I depends on your realm the prices of these, but perhaps it 
would be cheaper to ask a guildie to make one for you. Sometimes you can pick
up 10+ bags from a guild bank.

Tossing Items

The general rule of thumb is to sell anything you find that is gray. If in the
field you can just toss it if your bags are full. But if you are collecting 
things from enemies and you get a lot of the same items then perhaps it's best
to toss something else so you aren't constantly tossing the same items,
though that may be the best. It's always wise to drop gray equipment before 
gray weapons.

Late in the game it may be wise to drop white items, even of your professions
if in small quantities and below what you're using. It may even be good to 
drop potions and bandages before anything else.

Sharing the Wealth

If in a guild then anything white can probably be given to your guild bank,
such as water if you don't need mana, or extra food and potions that no longer
help you. This does not mean white equipment or weapons.

As for green items, or greens or uncommons, those need to be handled much 
differently. All greens you collect in the field should make it back to town 
with you. Now I'm not saying run to town when you get a green, unless you 
somehow get in that position, but when full packs appear you really need to do
all in your power to keep all your greens. The reason is not only to possibly
make fair trades with your guild bank and use yourself, but to also sell at the
auction house. Very rarely is it best to sell a green directly to a vendor. It
is interesting at high levels when the deposit at the AH for items is near the 
price you would sell it for, and possibly less than the gold you make with a 

*NOTE: After level 40 if your item is common and not going for much gold in the
AH, auction house, then perhaps it's going for a respectable sell price with
the vendors.*

Banking It

You will also find your way to the bank in a city where you can store any 
items you can. These banks are expensive beyond the default slots because you
must purchase a bag slot and have a spare bag. 

A recipe or anything for your profession that you can't use any time soon goes
in the bank. Same with any mats you find that you can't use, such as pulling 
some leather from a guild bank for later. If there are things you can use after
a level or two then you should hold onto those. In what can only be described 
as a bad idea you can also store items in the bank you just don't want to let
go, although you will never use them. 

*NOTE: For those mindful of alternates, consider holding onto all recipes. Of
course this may be costly, but it shouldn't be if you actually have alts to
use or hold those recipes.*

White items not weapons or armors are most likely needed by someone as a mat.
It's very tricky, but most mats can be used by you, if not for a direct 
recipe then perhaps as a mat for something you want that someone else can 
make, such as an enchanter or alchemist. Anything green that you don't know 
what it's used for needs to be kept until you find its use, probably on
the internet.

A bad idea is to store other weapon and armor "options." This is because for
only a few reasons would you need to swap weapons; so it's usually best to just
sell something once you've chosen something else, unless you're unsure which
item benefits you more, then maybe hold onto both. 

Maybe tanks need to hold onto extra pieces of gear for dungeons as you will
take a beating. It is nice if all damage dealers keep at least one spare weapon
in case a dungeon drags on forever.

For items you will never use, don't want to sell, don't want to toss, and 
things you want to keep probably need to be given to a mule. I like to write 
down their names, check the internet, and then decide if it's best to toss
such items.


No, I did not title a section by a random mammal. A mule in WoW is a character
you make on a server with the purpose of holding extra items from your main
character. You can make 10 characters on a server, so you can abuse that as 
you wish, but I can safely say that for a level 60 main I only needed one 
mule, with "needed" being purely subjective.

*NOTE: Upon thinking about it, I think with three characters and knowing what
items I have no use for I don't think I really have a mule, just an enchanter
holding items to disenchant for later and holding tons of runecloth.*

From a gameplay point of view it's wise to get your mule to at least level 15
so you can see how another class or race plays, but if you want to make a 
character and run it to a city for muling then that is fine too. This is easier
for humans on Alliance.

All you need is the mule to be in a major city, receive mail sent from your
main character, and then deposit the items in the mule's bank. Of course gold
is used for extra bank space, so bags and gold need to be sent to a mule for
heavy storage.

Another cool thing is if your main is off in the wild and not ready to 
return to civilization, but by a mailbox, then it's possible for the mule to
receive money and either buy materials or keep in touch with the auction 
house. This is not a very effective way of playing, but a nice option if you
want to keep your main in Northrend or Outland for an extended period with a
home point in that region.

And yes, you can have a level 1 in a one person guild for extra storage, but
that's a little too much abuse for my liking. You also need 100G for a bank
tab anyway. It may be a wise idea once you have a nice collection of toons
and they can all share a guild bank.

I do not encourage you to bypass buying more bags just because you can mule.
You need your own bags and space when entering higher level dungeons, mainly
because the dungeons are long and you will need as much space as possible.

Don't let muling turn into the next disease though.


This is a disease you contract when you create many characters but do not play
them beyond so long, while at the same time you have a much higher level main

You'll notice that WoW starts fast, with levels advanced very quickly, you will
hit level 20 in less than a week with no problems, much farther if you know
what you're doing. Even 20-40 is pretty darn fast and exciting.

But then you hit that wall getting to 50, I know I did. At this point not only
do you start a mule, but you'll most likely want to tamper with the different
types of realms. If you played the battlegrounds to failure then you probably
want to get a rogue, hunter, druid so you can rule a battleground at the 
maximum level for maximum fun.

I encourage you to play your main character far more than your alternates or 
mules. It's not illegal to sign them up for guilds not your main's, but you
also don't want to abuse guild privilages because aside from being uncool your
actions don't go unnoticed.

Maybe give an hour to starting new characters on other realms, not much because
once you start networks of characters on different realms, then you may be
talking about a real-life problem, or less a quality of play across your 

I would say three characters on one realm is a nice number. For me, I needed to
at least start a little on the classes to test them out, but I strongly
encourage you to think about three classes you want and stick to them.

Smart-Character Creations

This section is to better help you get an idea of what characters to create. 
It may be best to just go with one, but no matter what you'll create at least
three before one character hits 80.

Three Classes

There are many kinds of characters to have:

DPS - rogue, hunter, casters, and talent specs of other classes.
Tank - warrior, paladin, and DK. 
Heal - priest, pally, shaman, or druid.

There are also different play styles to think about:

Melee - rogue, warrior, paladin, DK.
Caster - mage, warlock, druid, priest, shaman.
Ranged - hunter, any caster.

ALL classes can have a DPS spec, so any class can cause damage, that is not the
focus of this. If you want DPS then I say either get a rogue or hunter. If
you want a tank, get a warrior or paladin. If you want a healer, get a priest
or druid. 

Here are what I think are the best three classes to play:

DPS - rogue
Tank - paladin
Heal - priest

Not only do those three choices get you a nice stable of character styles, 
they also allow you to get three profession types that they can use.

Your rogue can work leather and skin, your pally can mine and most likely
jewelcrafting, and your priest can gather herbs and enchant. All three can
gather to sell at the auction while at the same time advance their professions.

Making Money

Here is a list of where I rank the needs of the creation professions, including
auction house prices and demand:

Enchanting - 50%
Jewelcrafting - 30%
Leatherworking - 5%
Blacksmithing - 5%
Tailoring - 4%
Inscription - 4% (mostly all AH)
Alchemy - 2% (pray you got mucho twinks on your realm)

Enchanting requires you to almost get it to 450 to become a solid money-maker,
and even then it's not like there is promised money. The biggest knock 
against enchanting is that most will offer for free if you have the mats, so
you could end up making no money unless you sell your stuff at the AH. Then
if you want to make mad money you'll have to devote a lot of time selling
your service and running around to the people that need you.

Personally, I would only enchant so I could have someone disenchant items for
me so other enchanters can enchant for me. Or so the enchanter can enchant
AH stuff (which won't help you enchant your level 80's for much).

The three gathering professions, skinning, mining, and herbalism can be used to
make you promised money. Everyone uses these, and everyone will pay for the 
materials at any level. The easiest one for money is mining, since you don't
always have to kill things and can track the nodes on your map.

So if you want to max your money-making potential and guarantee you can always
earn money, pick up enchanting and mining. 

The Death Knight

One interesting thing about your DK is that you can pick up any professions
you want, and in little time that DK can be either a valuable support to your
main or a cash cow. 

First you should know that enchanting is hard for a DK because most enchanters
get items from quest rewards, creations, or cheap buys at the AH. So let's be
clear that Enchanting is only for a character you start from scratch, or if 
you're ready to do a bunch of low-levels as a DK, defeating the benefit of 
starting at level 55. Maybe if you're a tailor as well and hit dungeons, but
this is only if your main(s) don't enchant and you want one badly.

Second you should realize that almost 50% of the people in Outland are DK's, 
none of which have professions. So the Outland can be used by your DK to farm
mats without much interruption.

Last is that any profession other than enchanting can be easily farmed in
Azeroth. Mining/herbs are easy to get as a DK because you have a fast 
mount and only draw aggro in a few areas, meaning you can ride around mostly

So it's safe to say that at DK can herb or mine, but not both since you can't
track both - maybe if you have good eyes and don't ride too fast, but most
are tricky to find.

There are only three creation professions a wise DK should pick up: jewel-
crafting, alchemy, and inscription. Leatherworking/skinning both require you
kill beasts, and most LW is best for a rogue or hunter who can use them. 
Blacksmithing/engineering also advance smoother as you level. Tailoring for a
DK requires running dungeons, but other than bags you aren't making a ton of 
money until then. 

Everyone can use glyphs, everyone can drink potions, and jewelcrafting is 
easily the second most popular profession. Personally, a mining and JC Death
Knight is the smartest option to both make items all your characters can use
and make easy money when you need it.

One thing to consider as a DK is to maybe buy a bunch of bags and just go 
around gather mats without stopping for much. And once at 300 of gathering,
then pick up the profession to use those and see how far you can get. It could
cut a lot of time, but you still need to train the gathering profession anyway,
so maybe taking both at the same time will work fine.


No matter what you do in creating a character and picking professions, don't 
think that they will all be easy or take little time. Professions require 
levels, and all professions draw off each other to advance. Only with three
balance, same-level characters could you expect to pay no money for 98% of
the mats all three would need.


Guilds are the most social aspect of Warcraft, since guild members are willing
to help you more often than others, they are accountable more so than other
strangers, and the guild chat will follow you no matter where you are.

What is a Guild?

It's simply a group you associate with and should have common ground with, who
will at least help you if in need of something. A guild can be nothing more 
than a chat room or access to a guild bank for some. 

That title under players in the game enclosed by  is their guild.

Size Matters

Joining a small guild usually means there is little chat, little help, and 
not much benefit for you other than the title. It may also be better to form
closer bounds and more concrete relationships.

However, large guilds can be unruly and possibly tyrannical with too many
restrictions and rules. But of course a lack of rules could lead to theft of
the bank, spammed chat, and not much help.

It's best to get a good feel of a guild before you join. I would advise you
join a guild looking to "boost our numbers" or waiting to join the guild of 
a friend you either know in person or meet in the game.


You press 'enter' and type '/g' to enter the guild chat. Your guild chat is 
connected to you no matter where everyone is. This means that you'll have 
something to do no matter where you are, can ask for help, or can see if 
anyone else is doing something of interest to you.

Guild Bank

The guild banks are located by the banks in major cities, or wherever banks
are found.

The guild bank is the most important aspect of a guild because it allows the 
transfer of free items from one person to another. 

Here are my rules for a GB:

	#1. Take only what you can use or need, or can use real soon.
	#2. Give back items you can no longer use, such as potions, and mats
		you can't use. Items you can't sell at the AH but that are not
		complete trash should be given to your guild.
	#3. DO NOT give any gray items. Not even white weapons or armor.
	#4. If there are items you can no longer use for you profession, and
		the bank is getting full, wait a few days or so until you
		take those, and only on days when you haven't used your 
		allowed takes.
	#5. It's always nice to trade something for what you take. Most guilds
		won't have rulse for this, but anything of use should be 
		traded for something you take.

Some guilds charge fees and taxes, others don't. Some allow for withdrawals
and/or paid repairs, others don't. These things may be the more important
info to learn about a guild.

My guild doesn't ask for money, but also doesn't let me take money or take 
money, but that's fine. I think the quicker we get that sixth tab the quicker
they will open the coffers.

Guild Meetings/Events

If there is a meeting or event, especially if invited, you should attend or 
at least say you can't go. Don't laugh or make a mockery of whatever happens,
just go with the flow and stay quiet if things get too nerdy. 


It's not wise to invite any stranger to your guild or accept any invitation.
That seems odd since I accepted a random invitation to what has turned out to
be a large, diverse, and cool guild, but I would still advise against it.

You don't invite people to your guild unless you are the leader. If you want
to invite someone then ask an officer or the leader first. If you don't then
that person may get in the bank, grab what they want, and then leave the 
guild. Not cool.


Joining a guild is done through many ways. My guild requires online 
registration, although I was recruited in-game. Usually someone in the game 
will announce they are accepting members, and if you meet the requirements 
then you can whisper and ask for more.

There are many types of guilds, so be sure you know what you're getting into.

Standard - just a guild of members who have no real goals or specialization.
	This is my type of guild with no real rules, just people who can help
	when needed. These are usually the larger guilds, with just as many
	people as they want.
Twink - Twink guilds are cool with the fact that your character is not your
	main, none in the guild are apparently. These should be cool with 
	giving out nice equipment and possibly allowing for equipment for your
Leveling - This type is more designed for helping each other complete dungeons
	and level up when needed, more so than the others. They are also okay
	with you leaving once you are leveled up nicely.
High-Level - These guilds either want high level characters or want you to be
	one in hurry, and they will help you get there. These are all called
	"end-game" guilds as they desire to reach a point of "completion," or
	at least finish the hardest dungeons.
Racial/Class - I have not run into a racial guild, probably best, but for a 
	class like rogue it may be best to join a class-only guild where all
	know the others' needs. Of course effective groups for non-hybrid 
	classes will be difficult to muster within these guilds.
New - These are either for people who want a single-person guild for storage,
	or they are a real new guild. Joining a new guild can be a disaster or
	blessing, it all depends on whether the others are near or far above
	your level.
Sign-for-Gold - I don't know if this is a popular option, but if you want to
	play the game without a guild to stay with, you can look for chat
	messages asking for you to sign for a payment. These are usually for
	people wanting their own guild to themselves, so they will want to
	pay you and then allow you to leave. So you can essentially help these
	people out for free gold, since most new players join real guilds
	there isn't exactly a constant flow of un-guilded players in any

*NOTE: I think you must stay signed with one guild until it is formed, then you
can leave or sign with another. I'm not entirely sure when you can sign with
another guild or charter.*


Guilds are very aware of what you take, there are logs that keep track of what
each member takes and gives. Nothing can be done if you take stuff at your 
level and can use, but if you start taking weapons and items you can't use or
don't need then expect to be either warned against it or kicked. If you are 
low on money then it's best to ask a guild member for a small donation, 
especially a level 80, rather than take something to sell. 

Usually you need to have a good rep and get promoted to access the good stuff
in the guild bank anyway. But if you can trade for anything then that is most
likely fine.


You should at least notify someone you are leaving, or mail the leader, if not
provide some notice ahead of time. It's not a crime to just walk away, but it 
sorta is if you've taken more than you've given to the guild. Trust me, they
keep records and can spread the word you were not very cool.

Starting Your Own

You simply find the guild master in the city and purchase a charter for 10
silver. You then find 9 players to sign it and turn it in to the master to
form the guild. 

You need to keep the charter in your backpack due to a bug.

Once you have a guild ready you can design a tabard for 10G, and all tabards
cost 50 S, but usually provided by the guild in the bank. A tabard is of no
benefit other than visual appeal, and if ugly then maybe it's best to tuck 
your tabard in your pack.

It costs 9350G for all six guild bank tabs, going from 100, 250, 500, 1000,
2500, and 5000.

The permissions, promotions, icons, design, kicks, and recruits are all under
the control the leader. Don't get any officers or allow any powers to others
that you can't trust fully.

I would say you make a guild once you've hit level 80 and have maxed out your
gear. At that point your guild has nothing to offer you, so you may as well
use your powers for good. If you are impatient or people don't like you then
that is the cue to not make a guild or disband or step down as the leader

*NOTE: Wouldn't it be weird if the leader of guild dies in real life and no 
one in the guild knows? That's like gonna be an issue 40 years from now... just
think about it, applies to the whole internet actually. But I'll always be
here, and so will you.*

Getting Help

There are many ways in which you can get help for playing this game. First is
to use a website like,, or many others, but I use
wowwiki because I just do. 

There are other exterior ways to help. One is by using add-ons, and don't 
ask me how to install them or what they are, I just know they exist. Second is
to buy a guide, or use this one! I found an auction on eBay for both a base
game and Burning Crusade guides for just about $5. They aren't walkthroughs 
or help with all my problems, but they have maps and some nice info.

For in-game help you have chat. Below I'll outline the many kinds of chat, but
all you need to know is that there is nothing wrong with asking a question to
your fellow gamers. This is half the reason to join a guild, so familiar 
players can help you play. Trust me, at level 50 I was still learning lots,
and there are many things I still don't know. 

Quest logs, tutorials, scroll-overs, and guards can also offer help. Quests 
will always at least point you in the right direction, although later they
do become less and less helpful. Scroll-overs are when you put your pointer 
over something and sometimes text will appear to help you use it. Guards in
most cities and other places can tell you where to find all the major NPC's
you need, such as your trainers, and other locations.

You can also use the tracking button near your mini-map to find certain things
in town. This is the same tracking hunters have to track enemies. Even some
professions like mining allow for tracking of things.



Be sure to be picky with who you add to your friends list. It's okay to add 
someone nice and helpful after a dungeon or group quest, but most of the 
people you add that way will never come into contact with you.

You can add friends by selecting their portrait, opening your social tab, and 
selecting add friend, or select add friend and type their name.

Friends will appear to you with light blue name tags when you see them.


The Who tab in your social menu is used to find someone who you can't see or 
have not seen in chat. This is really only used to find someone that a group
member says to add, or maybe for other obscure reasons.


Chat channel /4 is for when you open the group tab and select that you are 
looking to run a dungeon. Of course few use this because advertising in trade
or general or guild chat is easier. 


You can open chat from social and see who is on a channel, even make your own

You have different commands to enter to go into different chats, just press
ENTER and the following, then SPACE:

/s - Say, the base chat where you speak to anyone nearby.
/y - Yell, yells your phrase to people with a large area, not always the 
	entire map.
/1 - General, the chat for the map you are in.
/2 - Trade, for the only channel that connects all your cities, but can only
	be entered from within a city.
/g - Guild, join your guild's chat channel.
/p - Party, talk to only people in your party.
/bg - Battleground, used when in a PvP battleground.
/raid - Raid, talk within your raid.

Be nice in all chat, don't pick a fight with anyone, trust me, it's much easier
to ignore someone than argue with them.

Whenever speaking, make sure you are not confusing or saying something off-
color, you're speaking to many different kinds people, not just a bunch of 
hip 20-somethings.

One nice tip is that when anyone uses chat you can shift click their name to 
find out their level, where they are, class, and what guild they are in. 
Useful for getting around having to find things out through asking them.


A party is formed by right clicking on someone's portrait or their name in 
chat and selecting "Invite". You can have five players in one party, and 
with a group you can beat any quest. With a party of 3 DPS, 1 tank, and 1 
healer you can clear any dungeon - of course your levels must match whatever
you are doing. 

Groups are temporary and disband shortly after the quest is done. If a party
breaks up before then someone has not been a good team-player. 

Always check the looting of a group, and keep your eye out for people that try
to take all the rewards. 


You won't these much until you raid the other faction's cities or attack the 
end-game dungeons. The raids in Azeroth and Outland are out-dated and not 
required or wise other than for achievements, rep, and the experience of 
doing them (not XP however). 

Raids can be 10, 25, or 40 large, and you can only complete "RAID" quests while
in a raid.

It's best to join a raiding guild, or if your guild will lead a raid. Joining
random raids is not wise because they tend to not form, fall apart upon 
formation, or someone will be a loot ninja or not follow directions and ruin
the whole raid.

You have a raid tab in your social menu, and this will help you see who is 
in your raid and see if you're raid is balanced.


Group looting is the base looting system, where everyone gets a turn to loot
a corpse alone. Once you open and close the corpse without taking all the loot
it will become open to anyone.

Loot Master requires someone of trust and honesty, so it's not seen very 
often. With a master looter that person decides who gets what. This is mostly
best in raids when people may NEED things they can't use, so that master can
determine who gets what, usually by rolling manually (the /roll command).

Free-for-all is not wise because then you allow someone to skip fighting and 
go loot. It's also bad for anyone with laggy connections. Ffa looting should
only be done when it's a two-person party and one person needs none of the 
loot. Even with 3 people, someone may get left out.


There is a bar over your standard action bar that measures your experience, or
EXP, until you advance. You can mouse over this bar to see how much you have to
go. Staying in a city, town, or safe area will turn this bar blue and you will
enter a state of "rested" in which you gain double EXP. Basically if you don't
play a character for a period of time then you are rested for much longer. 
This is a way to reward you for not playing the game constantly. Your "rested"
amount depletes with kills, not by turning in quests.

Of course killing monsters is the main way to gain EXP, but you also gain a 
large share by completing quests. Completion EXP is near the amount of how 
much you gain by killing a similar amount of enemies, or close to it. A 
standard "fetch" quest nets probably a unit of your EXP bar, while killing a
dungeon boss is closer to two or three units.

You also gain small amounts of EXP through exploration. These are not meant as
much early, but late you can fill many units on your EXP bar through finishing
your maps.

Your level determines what abilities you can train, equipment you can wear and
use, quests and areas you can enter safely, battlegrounds you can enter, 
profession skills, and given talent points.


The game is based on you finishing quests in order to gain experience, explore,
earn coin, and get new items. You find quests by finding the NPC's on your 
mini-map or by just finding those who have exclamation marks over their heads.
You round up to 25 quests and then go out and complete them. There is a 
single button to bring up your quest log and by following the ones in your path
or nearby you can maximize your leveling potentional much faster than most.

A very key tip to finishing quests faster is to round up all the quests that 
take place in one area. Knowledge of the land is key if your log is fairly
full, but if not then you can just get them all and head to the area where the
most take place, which is usually in an area with lots of things happening.
And if you end up in a place with lots of activity and have no quests then
there is probably some town with quests to pick up.

*NOTE: I prefer to tackle the "easier" ones in an area, turn them in, see if 
the new ones are connected to the others, and then go out. It's unwise to go
into a dungeon with only a handful of quests. For dungeons I suggest using
an internet source so you can find if not most at least the ones easiest to
obtain, then go into the dungeon.*

When you have a quest and don't feel up to reading, then here is the guide to
dissecting a quest file. There is a who, why, and what part, and it's the what
part that you need because it tells you what you need to do. And if you don't
pick it up from the top where there is usually a number required, then find
the what part to learn what you must do. Although some quests are tricky in
that you must also find the where part, and there may be two wheres. One that
tells you where to go first and another for where you end.

There are three types of quests: go, report, and collect. The vast majority are
collection quests in which you either find stuff or kill things to get the
stuff, also called "fetch" quests. Go quests mean you just get to one area,
usually with the intentions of leading you to more quests. Report quests mean
you find something and then report back, usually not requiring any direct

Pay attention the quest color. You don't want to let green quests go grey, but
you also don't want to drop all grey quests. If a quest goes grey then perhaps
you need to quickly finish it to see if the completion leads to another. 

It's also not wise to take on too many quests in the other races' areas as you
want to build rep with your race and area. Of course you can do all the quests
of your faction, and most lead to the same ends, but if you make multiple 
characters then just stay to your areas so you can play the game from all

Killing Stuff

Otherwise known as combat or fighting, is the main point of this game. You 
kill stuff, get money, rewards, and XP to level up. But there are a few more 
things to keep in mind other than just attacking something.


This is the concept upon which this and many other MMO's are based. Aggro is 
basically an invisible circle under your feet and under all the enemies in the
game. If the circles touch, then you draw aggro.

This circle grows in relation with your level to the enemy's. If you are lower
than something then your circle is bigger. If you are higher than them then 
your circle is smaller.

You can increase your aggro by three ways: attacking, healing, or using a 
threat increasing skill. There are no reasons to worry yourself of aggro
when fighting one-on-one, it's when in a group or raid when aggro becomes key
to not dying. 

A tank draws aggro by increasing threat and giving honest damage so that the 
monsters stay on the tank. If someone is putting more DPS on the same monster
then it won't take long for the monster to attack someone other than the 
tank. Healing too much will also draw an enemy. Healing aggro mainly affects
when a lower level is healed, which makes sense so players couldn't do some
quests with just a high level healer at their side.

Rogues generate less threat than most, and can lower threat with Feint. I'm
not sure if other can reduce threat, but so long as you don't do a lot of
damage you won't draw aggro.

Crowd Control

This means that you will reduce the amount of things attacking you or your
group. Sap from rogues and polymorph from mages are a form of CC which can 
turn a 4 enemy mob of elites into 2. There are other ways of CC while fighting,
such as Blind and Fear.


No reason to attack stuff higher level, because with just their base stats they
can put up a fight with any twink. Eight levels below yours and the thing 
should die easily, quickly, and without much effort. A couple of levels above
you and it will require max effort to survive. 

Of course the more low levels you face the more likely you will fail. You
would be surprised how easily a level 60 can solo a mob of 20s and take little
damage, but that same 60 would die to three or four 50's. 


Elites are either boss enemies or stronger mobs. An elite, non-boss is the 
same as a normal enemy level plus eight. So a level 40 elite is like a level
48 normal enemy.

Boss elites are just super-strong, huge health enemies that require more than
one of you to kill. Bosses can vary greatly, it all depends on how much health
one has.

Different Worlds

There have been two expansions to a base Warcraft game, so there are some 
differences with the enemies in each "world". The best example of this is that
a level 80 could solo probably every Azeroth dungeon, mabye some potions and
scrolls for a few. Certainly there is no wild Elite that a level 70 or 80
couldn't handle. 

It's a matter of gear, where Burning Crusade gear is so much better than 
"Old World" gear, and Northend Gear is even better than the best BC gear. Only
purples from one world to the other may last you five levels into the next 
world, but blues from one world will be less than greens from the next.



There are only two ways to choose to level: doing more low level stuff or 
fewer same level stuff.

Attacking green monsters and doing green quests does not reduce much the XP
you get, and they are always easy to complete. You can do a ton of these for
half the effort and the same result as fewere yellow quests. 

By doing yellow quests it's unclear if they will be simple. Sometimes they are
if your gear is good and the quest is simple. But if you don't know what to
do or the quest is just one of those oddly tough quests, it could prove a 
real time killer. 

It's not really worth the time to complete red quests, especially if they are
out of the way. But if you have gear or help, feel free to try a red or orange


58 and 68 are crucial levels because the next world is open for you. Not 
only do the next worlds always give more gold and XP than the last, they 
also give much better and easy gear. They of course require each expansion
pack installed.

1-10 - all done in your starting zone and map.
10-20 - all races have two second zones, but at this point you can mix and 
	match going to the next zone of another race's city.
20-30 - you'll finish in the second zone of choice, then you'll probably
	start into one of the many "contested territories" in which Horde and
	Alliance share.
30-40 - Stranglethorn Vale and Ashenvale are prime areas for this.
40-50 - Finish STV, then go to Tanaris.
50-55 - Un'Goro Crater for sure, or maybe Searing Gorge.
	*You may now create a Death Knight*
55-58 - Silithus, Winterspring, or Eastern Plaguelands
58-68 - Get your butt through the Dark Portal in Blasted Lands and start
	questing in Hellfire, then anywhere else (can probably skip Stonetalon,
	Shadowmoon Valley, and Netherstorm)
68-75 - Use the boat at the SW Harbor to reach the Borean Tundra, or the 
	boat at Menethil Harbor to reach the Howling Fjord.
75-80 - All the remaining Northrend.

Azeroth Raids and Quel'Thalas are areas meant for the end of base WoW and BC
respectively. The rewards from Azeroth raids are just not worth the time. You
may as well level alone and move on to Outland. 

Intestingly, I was able to reach 68 by questing fully in Hellfire and Zanga-
marsh - I didn't even travel to the other zones. In Outland you can do some of
Hellfire and then go to Nagrand, Stonetalon, or the forest if you wish.

For Northrend, the starting quests in the Fjord and Tundra offer nice rewards,
and could allow you a nice pool of weapons if you do both at the same time.
And unlike Outland, you'll most likely need nearly all the zones in Northrend
to reach 80.

Solo vs Groups

An interesting note is that while dungeon and group rewards are much better 
than solo rewards, usually, it will take less time and effort to do solo 
quests than to do groups, be it groups for quest or dungeon. So you could level
faster by doing only solo quests, and there are enough at all levels to level

Group quests should be done by asking on the local chat, asking if anyone 
needs those to. NEVER stop questing to wait for a group to form, that is not
time efficeint. 

Dungeons should be tackled with your guild, or when you see someone saying 
they need your type to help. Waiting so you can complete and dungeon is not
wise either.

Raids should be done with your guild or when you see someone ask. Of course,
you don't NEED any raids until you reach 80, so all the rest are of no concern.

Economy & Auction House


The economy of WoW is constantly in flux. There are only two sources of gold
from the game: drops and rewards. You can both get dropped gold or items from
things, and you can get rewarded gold or items to sell to vendors for gold.
These are the only ways to get gold on your own.

Then there is circulated gold, which is all the gold of the players on your 
server. There are many ways to get gold from other players: given, trades, or
from the Auction House. Players can give you gold through trades or through 
mail, of course they either need a ton so they can spare some or they must
really like you. Trades are either trades or tips for services, such as 
enchanting or any other work that has no set price. And the auction house is
a beast all its own.

It's interesting what items you should vendor, meaning you sell to any selling
NPC, and what items you can put in the AH. Late in the game you could possibly
make more money from a vendor than trying and failing to sell something at the
AH. It really takes a knowledge of what may or may not sell - supply and 
demand of course.

Auction House

Buying - you select from the tabs to narrow your search using any number of 
listings, you can set what level range, and then search; or type in the exact
name of the item; or shift click the item if you have one. 

	Bid - you enter the current bid amount, which leaves open the chance
	for someone to outbid you. The time left is a big factor in whether
	or not you win the item. Short means you'll probably get it, medium
	is iffy, and long or very long means you should hope the item is not
	in high demand.

	Buyout - you select the buyout price and you get the item with no
	waiting. This is usually a higher price than the bid, but if you don't
	need the item that badly you should bid instead.

	Bidding On - there is a tab for all your bids, where you can bid
	again. Keep in mind you cannot cancel a bid.

	Winning - when you win an item it will immediately appear in your

	Gear? - sometimes you may want to replace your gear with better gear,
	and short of researching quest rewards online, you may want to just 
	replace gear that is three or more levels below what you currently
	have. You'll have much less money later in the game if you keep buying
	new gear for every level. 

	Blue vs Green - always make sure you aren't paying too much for a green
	item when you could pay a little more for a blue. 20gold for a green
	item is never a good idea, you may as well spend a little more for a 
	blue if you want better gear that badly.

	Twink Gear - 19, 29, 39, 49, 59, 69, 79, and 80 are levels to be
	cautious of because many players want the best gear for battlegrounds.
	Rarely do you find gear at this level for a low price, but if you do
	you could make money by selling it yourself, and if you find gear at
	these levels someone will buy it for a higher price than you think.

	Change of Worlds - at level 56-60 you should not buy new gear, same for
	66-70. This is because your first quests in Outland and Northrend will
	gear you up. If you do buy gear at these ranges you need to make sure
	you're getting the set from the next world, it's always better.

	Dungeons? - it may be worth it to check the dungeons at your level 
	online, research the quests, and see if those rewards would be better
	than spending money for gear. It's the least you could do.

Selling - there is an art to selling items in the AH. 50% of items you can 
sell are not going to sell. Enchanters always want cheap gear to DE, but the
price they would pay is most likely less than the vendor price for most high-
level items. 

	Deposit Fee - this is the most important thing about the AH, that 
	all items you want to sell have a fee. High level gear has a very
	hefty fee, and you don't get the fee back if you item does not sell.
	Early in the game you can get away with putting everything on the AH
	because the fees are not so bad, just one sold item can cover all your
	fees. But late in the game, where items are sought after less and less,
	you may be costing yourself some serious gold by putting everything on
	the AH block. If your item does sell however, you get the fee back.

	Starting Bid - there is a base bid set by default, so your starting 
	bid should not be lower, if it is or if the market is set lower than
	that, consider vendoring it. It's always nice to set the starting bid
	a little higher, maybe round up to the next gold amount.
	Buyout - should never be unreasonable because people want to get the
	item now, they do not want to wait. If you set it near your starting
	bid they you will most likely sell it. You set it higher above if you
	know it's in higher demand and if there is little supply. And you set
	it 10's of gold higher if you know some twink will pick it up or you
	have the only item on the market. However, you don't have to set a 
	buyout, sometimes it could be better to let people bid for it, or you
	may get less, there are no rules for what to not give a buyout.

	Undercutting? - It's cool if you price a few silver under the lowest
	price, but too much and you may be lowering the market price for that
	item, and at the very least making less money than you could.

	Know the Classes - I won't summarize every class in the game, but you
	should know who each piece of gear and weapon is used by. 

	People Got Cash - most low levels on a realm are in fact people with
	80's, so with that in mind you can set the buyouts for some items 
	much higher than the starting bid.

	Materials - or mats, are always in demand. Only overpriced mats will
	not sell. For selling mats you could consider not being the lowest
	price because of the higher demand, someone will buy the cheaper ones
	first, and eventually should place yours as the cheapest. Also, most
	fees for mats are cheap.

Trade Chat

Using /2 chat for selling and buying is a harsh monster. Not only do you limit
your selling power to who is on now, they must be in a city, and so must you. 
Not even using a town mule can get around the time required to sell items by

	WTS - this is the abbreviation for selling something, "Want To Sell."
	Then you shift click the item, maybe press enter, and your ad is put
	on trade chat. A simple message may look like: WTS [Your Momma] 1g.
	Don't be surprised if no one is interested. Things that sell in the AH
	may have only be demanded by two or three people, so the odds are not
	good that those people are on when you are, or if they see the message.

	WTB - "Want To Buy" means just that. You can again shift click if you
	have the item and send a message just like WTS. 

	WTT - "Want To Trade" is a seldom seen message meaning you don't want
	to buy something, you instead want to do an even trade. 

Level 80 Stuff

At level 80 the game becomes very different from the questing and profession
advancement of the 79 previous levels. You have only six things you can do with
a level 80:

Get gold
Max professions
Earn achievements

That's it. The seventh option is to make more toons, which you will, but of 
course your 80 only allows more gold for them.


This is my first option because this is the best way you can get purple gear.
In you faction's capitol is a place to purchase PvP gear at level 80 for 
your class. 31000-49000 honor points will buy you a piece of gear. Two pieces
of the same set nets a bonus, and four give an even better perk. Nearby of the 
base gear vendor is a guy who will sell trinkets, rings, capes, and necklaces.

Another nice way to get purple gear is to help your faction's fight for 
Wintergrasp. The quartermaster there sells a few base pieces of gear, as well
as some trinkets. No, the heirlooms he sells won't help your level 80 for long,
they are meant for your other toons on the server. The 80 equipment requires
your WG marks of honor, but you must kill 15 players (or be around them) and 
win each match to get 3.

Before a recent patch you could really farm Wintergrasp for honor with at least
the daily quests, but now those quests are weekly, so WG is only a source of 
normal honor for the other days of the week.

I say Alterac Valley is the best option for honor, a win in which all the 
towers/bunkers fell and you put in some killing of your own nets about 1600
honor a pop, and even losses can get 600 honor, which is almost as much as 
winning the other BGs. Arathi matches are usually quick too. Feel free to 
rotate all the BGs, and do the daily quest. If you rotate enough you can spend
your marks from all five BGs, one of each, at a battlemaster for the quest 
Conserted Efforts for honor.

Once you've done all you can for the Wintergrasp marks of honor and once you
have all the heirlooms, you can start spending those on honor from the WG
quartermaster. You can even spend the Stone Keeper Shards on the honor if you
know you won't need some of the heirlooms, but you may want to hesitate before
you do that. The WG marks of honor run out of use quicker than the SK Shards.


All dungeons from Outland and Northrend have heroic options. I believe most of
the Outland options require keys to unlock them (that may have since changed),
but no one really cares about those at 80.

There are only a handful of Northrend dungeons. The purpose of running these 
are for gear, emblems of heroism, and heroic quests. The gear is obvious, 
just whatever the bosses or mobs drop.

I mention this option second because it takes a group of five players with all
good gear in order to hope for non-wipage. Ironically, only the end-boss 
purple drop from heroic dungeons will help, but you need a group of players
with gear that is on that level to kill the end boss, easily at least. Ideally
you will group with four other players that already have raid gear, and you
can basically tag along and hopefully get a few good drops, or get the 
emblems. You can spend the emblems at a heroism quartermaster in Dalaran.

Emblems of heroism buy Frozen Orbs for professions, but also pay for a number
of weapons and some gear. The gear may not be what you are looking for, but
the weapons are for the most part at the same level of the Titansteel weapons
made by blacksmiths. 

Here is what each type of play style needs to shoot for:

DPS - 1.5k is the minimum.
Tank - be around 30k health.
Heal - not sure really, I guess around 18k mana.

It goes without saying, but knowing your class, maybe asking around or looking
on the net for tips for your class, always helps improve whatever it is you do.


Raids are the step above heroics, but depending on the raid group and their 
gear, mainly of the tanks and healers, perhaps any scrub 80 can jump into a 
raid group and not make it a fail. 

The heroic standards can be around the same, but it always helps to have the 
43k health tank and 3.5k dps in the group here and there.

*NOTE: To set a 10 man vs 25 man, just have that number or less in the raid 
as you enter. All raids have the same two settings, I think.*

There are 10 man and 25 man raids in Northrend. ALL raids require that every-
one in the raid know the bosses, very few bosses are just tank-and-spank, or 
near that. 10's are intended to be easier than 25's, but lesser-quality players
can hide in 25's better if the others are great. Also, for the most part you
can just do the heroic versions of raids, unless no one has raided before and
everyone's gear is blue.

Vault of Archavon - Located in Wintergrasp Keep to the winning side, this 
	raid is almost entirely intended as a one-boss raid of Archavon. 
	Emalon, added in a recent patch on the east wing, requires an Ulduar
	raid to down. Just kill the few enemies, head straight to the back,
	and make sure the tank moves Archavon away from the smog, that's 
	about it.
Obsidian Sanctum - Located underneath Wymrest Temple in Dragonblight, this 
	raid has a few mobs, 3 sub-bosses, and really just the one main
	boss in the middle. You really should clear everyone around the main
	boss of they all help if you engage him. However, I believe you can
	clear all the trash, but leave two drakes alive for some improved loot
	and increased difficulty.
Naxxramas - Located in eastern Dragonblight, Naxxramas is only reachable 
	with a flying mount or being summoned. Naxx is "main" raid of Northrend
	in that it has four wings, tons of trash mobs, and one final boss. 
	You probably need to raid the other two raids instances a few times 
	before you're ready to down Naxx. Feel free to do this one on normal
Eye of Eternity - Located as the third part of The Nexus in Borean Tundra,
	this is the fourth raid because you must acquire the key from a boss
	drop in Naxx, the second-to-last boss Sapphiron (the reg version gives
	the reg key and the heroic drops the heroic key, and the heroic key 
	can open both). EoE is a one boss raid, and not to be taken lightly,
	it's not something you just get a raid together and down like that.
Ulduar - As of a recent patch, Ulduar is the pinnacle of difficulty in 
	World of Warcraft. You can only do this once you have fully cleared 
	Naxx and if everyone knows the fights. Trust me, most of us won't even
	play this place until the next expansion and hit it with level 90s.

The point of raiding is for the boss drops, but also the drops that allow you
to buy tier 7 loot from a quartermaster in Dalaran. I believe you can even 
spend emblems of valor for the same equipment. Again, most of us will only hit
up OS or VoA.


It's very simple, either quest or work the AH/trade. There are about 8 dailies
for 80s to complete for about 150 gold a day; was about 15 with the WG quests
until they were made weekly.

Other than the dailies you can also do normal quests. Assuming you did almost
everything in Borean, Howling, Dragonblight, and Zul'drak to reach 80, that
will leave Icecrown, Scholazar, and the Storm Peaks for normal quests. There 
are quite a few, but they will dry up quickly. All of these quests net about
12-13 gold a pop, and with great gear you can do these very quickly.

The AH/trade for gold option is either using your professions or stuff you
farm/find. Professions are hit and miss, what with the cost of frozen orbs and
other mats you may not make much profit, just depends. You'll be far better off
farming mats and selling them, however, the amount of time spent farming may
be more than it seems. Another option is getting item drops and turning them
into enchanting materials, but you prob need to pay for the disenchanting,
and if you use them for enchantments you have to pay again.

Basically I'm just saying to do that dailies and quest for gold, it's the 
easiest option for the time put in. Here are the dailies I speak of:

Dalaran - Cooking, fishing, heroic dungeon, normal dungeon, and BG.
Argent Tournament (Northern Icecrown) - Target dummies, kill 8 scourge,
	collect wood, collect stone, and weapon quest.
Shadow Vault (clear the quest chain to open it up) - shoot down 15 drakes,
	burn 8 buildings in a drake, and plant banners in 15 vykrul corpses.

There are more dailies, all over Northrend, and even the fishing and cooking
dailies in Shat, which are essential for those titles.

You can see that the Dalaran dailies require effort in your other areas,
including at least secondary professions.


You may think I mean max your main professions, which is good, but I mean you
need to get your cooking and fishing up ASAP to get in on those dailies ASAP.

Cooking is not too hard to max up. Start by travelling the few towns below
level 40-ish for recipes, then hit up Tanaris, it's port, Feralas, and Felwood;
feel free to pick up doubles of each and sell them for 5 gold in the AH too, 
hint hint. Then you basically just need the buzzard recipe in Hellfire and
then the ones in Nagrand. I had enough meats saved from questing that I just
had to go all out and I was open to train in Dalaran for the final leg of 

Fishing is a much different story. There's a +3 fishing rod in Auberdine and a 
+20 rod from a kid in Shattrath. You can also get several worms and other baits
to increase your skill for a short time, and it does help. As of a patch you
can now fish anywhere, but you increase your chance to get stuff if your skill
is close to the level of the area you are in. Just keep fishing, really nothing
else to do. Don't pick up the crap of course, and keep all but the lowest of
fish. The skillup rate of fishing decreases as you level. One fish at a time 
will skill you up at first, then 5 for a time, and as high as 10 casts just to
skillup near 300. Needless to say, it takes a lot of time to level this up.
But as I said, your skill can be inflated and all it does is increase your
chances of catching stuff, it's not a restrictive skill.

I should also mention riding, but it's really more about gold. It's assumed 
you earned the 500 gold for the level 60 riding skill, and with the much 
increased gold from quests you can easily get the flying mount for Outland, but
of course all that's good for is exploring Outland. To get that "the Explorer"
title you'll also need another 1000 gold for cold weather flying, which is not
too hard to get - props if your character is named Dora. Finally, 5000 gold and
another 1700 or so gets you fast flying. Yeah, it probably takes a month and a
half of pure dedication to a fast flying mount and the training to get it,
of course you must not spend gold on anything else during this time. So you
only get this after you've gotten all purple gear, enchantments, and you don't 
have any alts.

And yeah, your main professions are very important too. Gathering professions
are guaranteed gold. Creation professions require Frozen Orbs, which drop from
heroic end-bosses, bought with 10 emblems of heroism, or bought from someone
else (anywhere from 70-120 gold). It is not easy to max out any of your 
professions, but it can net you nice gold and in most cases powerful buffs.


Yep, just like those stupid things from the Xbox 360, these are pointless and
offer no real bonus to you. Some offer titles, one I know of offers a mount,
but they are really no more than official declarations of your progression.

You can open up the shield icon on your toolbar to see all the achievements
in the game. Most server-first achievements get wiped off the books, so don't
be surprised if only a few people walk around with certain titles you can't

Titles and achievements can be tracked by shift-clicking them just like 
objectives. Not all achievements for a set are required for some titles, I
can't stress that enough.

Holidays - usually not all the achievements for that holiday, should just be
	a select few that net you the title. Be sure to check your calendar
	from time to time to see these coming, or of course just pay attention
	to chat.
Jenkins - I'm guessing Little House on the Prarie. Simply kill about 50 
	dragon whelps in Upper Blackrock Spire, in the room where there are 
	about 100 of them, and you get this easy title, but everyone knows
	how easy it is so it isn't THAT special.
the Explorer - Just explore every place listed for that region. I say that 
	you should get all the Azeroth places as you are in them questing.
	Not the same for all of Outland, as only Zangarmarsh can be explored
	without a flying mount. Not only that, you must also have cold weather
	flying to fully explore Northrend. There is just one high up spot in 
	Scholazar, while Storm Peaks and Icecrown are almost completely left
	to flight.
Ambassador - This one is simple once you realize you can do the starting 
	quests for good rep. Each faction has 5 races, but two are tied 
	together; meaning you really only need to raise rep with the four
	starting zones to hit each race. If you played to level 60 in Azeroth
	then you'll have at least two maxed out with little effort, while the
	others just require a few trips into their starting zone quests. Yes,
	one-shotting level 1 and 5 rats is a little embarassing, but once you
	get the title it may be the only one you need.
Black War Bear - This really depends on your server, your faction, the time of
	day, and of course the quality of the raid. The achievement is "For
	the Alliance/Horde", and all you do is raid each major city of the 
	other faction and kill the boss/leader. Part of it is also just knowing
	who you are killing and where they are. There are sometimes a few 
	boss level NPCs in a city. Kill all four of the bosses on the list and 
	in the mail you get your free mount; there is a creative way to
	make this your first swift mount, by riding in a motorcycle during.

* 5. Classes ( CLAS555 )                                                      *



This is the class I know the most about, so naturally I'll give all the 
advice I can. You have three options to pursue as a rogue: stealth, combat, or
assassination (burst damage). 

You can have all weapons except two-handed, polearms, staves, and axes. You
can only have cloth and leather armor. Early on you want "of the Monkey" items,
then "of the Bandit" if you want, and at 80 all your gear has agi/stam, attack
power, and then some combination of armor penetration, haste, crit, hit,
expertise, and resilience.

Your weapons are key, and they depend on your talent build. If going into
assassination, get daggers, same for subtlety. But with combat you want any
kind of slow weapon in the main hand and a dagger or whatever is fast in the
off-hand. I'll explain more later.

At level 20 you can purchase poisons from the poison vendors, usually near the
rogue trainers.

Aside from using Energy, a rogue also relies on combo points to use their more
powerful attacks. These are finishing moves, the assassination part of your
talents, and they provide a benefit relative to the number of combo points 
you've put on the enemy, up to 5. You can put these on through your instant
abilities and through talents you've chosen.

Stats and Buffs

You need not look to any intellect or spirit buffs as you run off a fixed bar
of 100 energy. Anything you get with INT should be discarded or replaced with
anything else if possible, because even spirit may help as you'll be in 
stealth when not in combat.

You can have strength, but it's best to look for "of the Monkey" items because
you want both agility and stamina to not be a damage-dealing weakling. PvP
seems to favor a mix of agility and stamina. So it makes sense to have stamina,
agility, and strength buffs, but you want to get as much agility as you can.

Later in the game, around level 58, you will want to pursue "of the Bandit"
items which do not buff stamina and agility as much as "of the Monkey" does,
but it makes up for it with pure attack power. Still, more agility is key, so
I would stick with monkey items, but bandit items are okay as well. Just know
that usually attack power is stronger than strength and agility.

*NOTE: Agility adds to attack and also gives a small chance to dodge. More
importantly, it also adds to critical hit rating. Pure attack power does not
mean it adds that much damage, so don't think it's adding a ton to your DPS.*

PvP rogues can do a number of builds. At 80 you have resilience to helps 
reduce crits and damage. At all other levels it's up to you how much pure DPS
you want. Agility, hit rating, haste could be replaced with strength or attack
power for pure DPS, as you won't be around long in large fights, and in most
one-on-one people will escape unless you kill them fast. Once a rogue is pinned
down, a rogue is dead.


Here are the abilities of note, with the rest being instanst strikes.

Stealth - Your main ability, basically letting you turn invisible to all other
NPC's and those of the other faction so long as you are not too below their 
level. If you want to stop a patrolling NPC use the Distract ability to hold
them in one spot for a short time for you to plan your move.

*NOTE: In stealth your first action bar will switch to an alternate, which 
allows you to hot key your stealth abilities. For this I like to put distract
in one, unstealth in two, and then have my stealth attacks follow.*

Poisons - There are really only four you use, two for PvE, two for PvP.
I say crippling and wound are PvP, while instant is you main hand poison while
deadly is our off hand in PvE. Mind-numbing is trash, and the rage one really
only has a few PvE uses and there aren't that many rage classes you need to
engage in PvP.

*NOTE: I like to keep all my poisons in my main bag, and keep them at 20. Yes,
you can track poison vendors in your mini map.*

Sprint - Your only form of increased foot-speed, which could take two minutes
to cooldown. It's essential for fleeing, but at all other times it just lets 
you get to places faster. In PvP it's used to stay behind an enemy and make it
harder for anyone to target you.

Blind - This move makes one enemy run in circles for a short time so long as
they are not damaged. This is nice if you are attacked by two enemies, just
blind one and hopefully you can kill the other in under 10 seconds.

Cheap Shot/Kidney Shot - Cheap shot is a sneak attack to give you 2 combo
points and stuns the enemy for a time, with Kidney Shot using your points to
stun the enemy for a time while in combat. The reason to stun an enemy in
PvE is to reduce damage taken, or as a form of crowd control, but it's 
possibly better to use a finisher instead on a near-dead enemy. Kidney can be
used to disrupt casting of enemies, even for just a second. In PvP or mobs
these are best used because they control the crowd numbers and reduce damage
taken, or possibly just to stall for time. Trust me, a lot of players will 
drop whatever they are doing to attack a rogue that just cheap-shotted them,
even if they could win by attacking something else.

Gouge - Just like the stun effects, this is serves the same purpose. It is a
stun in which you can't attack during or it breaks, but it can disrupt casting
and stall for time. It's really not of much use, you may as well just keep

*NOTE: Gouge could best be used as a fleeing move or to give you time to use
a potion without wasting combat time. I guess in a losing battle you can gouge
and sprint away. Also be sure you don't have your deadly poisons on because
any damage during will break it.*

Slice and Dice - In mobs this is your best ability to speed up your DPS, since
that is all you are doing. Combine with Blade Flurry and you can eat up two 
enemies at once, or leaving the second with little health.

Eviscerate - This is your splash/burst finisher, and your move of choice in PvE
against single enemies.

Rupture/Garrote - Rupture uses combo points, Garrote is a stealth attack with a
weak silence. Both cause damage over time that ignore armor. In PvE rupture
is a great way of adding to your DPS on a boss. In PvP Garrote can help get the
jump on a caster, possibly throwing them off their game.

Shiv - Instantly apply your off hand poison. Great for putting that crippling
in PvP.

Lockpicking - This falls into a category of profession/key-bypass. As a 
pseudo-profession you can answer the calls of any player who needs a lockbox
opened, or offer it as a service in trade like any other craft. It depends
on how much you charge for a pick. I like to leave the tip optional of whoever
needs a pick, especially if you are wanting to use it to level.

Of course there are several doors and chests in the game that you can open,
but of course you must be able to pick them and even then there are only so
many dungeons in which to use your talent.

*NOTE: To level it you start by going to 50 or so where you first pick up the
skill. Usually there is a place nearby that with more locks, such as the
bottom of the lake in Redridge. Then a rogue trainer can start telling you
where to go for further advancement. Refer to about good 
spots for lockpicking.*

*NOTE: This is a big note for those of you who don't pick this up on your 
own. You can only skill-up beyond your max by leveling up. For example,
it takes until level 65 until you can open 325 lockboxes. That's 65 times 5, as
the skill max goes up by 5 with each level. It's the same as weapons and such.*

Talent Trees

The first two are your main PvE talents. I guess if you have not enough money
to dual-spec you could main Subtlety, but it's really just for PvP.
Assassination - This is the tree for those who want to cause as many critical
strikes and the most burst damage possible. Malice from the start improves 
crit, but beyond that you are basically going Mutilate or bust. Mutilate is
your ONLY ability, you will basically spam that as much as you can along with
your other cooldowns of course. If you get this, get two daggers.

Combat - Combat helps you fight and somewhat avoid damage. Your main ability
is Sinister Strike, with Killing Spree used whenever you can. Blade Flurry,
Adrenaline Rush, and Slice N Dice are your next abilities of note to greatly
add to that DPS. With the energy regen rate, with the assassination talent 
Vigor, the Vigor glyph, and the 80 gear +10 energy buff, that's 130 about 3
Sinister Strikes then an Eviscerate for about 10k damage in total, not 
including your auto-attacks. Get a slow weapon in your main hand since that's
where your Sinister Strike comes from, then some fast weapon in your other
hand; ideally both are swords for that sword talent node.

Subtlety - Purely for PvP, with the many tricks you can use for CC. This is 
great for you 80s that can dual-spec. Energy and crits are not that important
in PvP, the main thing is just using your cooldowns to close that space
between you and the clothie of choice. Multiple vanishings and shadow dances
will help you become worth a dang in PvP.

All rogues need the crit talent from assassination, the off-hand increaser from
combat, and relentless strikes from subtlety; all in the first tier.

Feel free to pick up the following glyphs:

Minor - Blurred Speed and whatever else, there are only 4.
Major - Sinister Strike, Killing Spree, Vigor, Fan of Knives, Rupture,
	Mutilate, and Slice and Dice.



You are a ranged, non-magic DPS machine who has a pet which acts as your 
tank. You use bows, guns, and crossbows as your main weapons, with your melee
attack as your last resort. I know you can focus on melee damage, but come on,
you'll be a laughed-at hunter if you do.

You have shots and stings which rely on your mana pool. You also have traps 
to fit your situation and you can heal your pet. Your Hunter's Mark in most
cases should be standard on every enemy you need killed.

That's about it, your gameplan isn't hard to follow. 


You can only have as many as your stable master can hold, which gets expensive
the more you want to keep. You can only bring one with you though. By right-
clicking on their portrait you can rename them or let them go.

Pets have their own talents and get points about every five levels. They level
up separately of you as well.

There are different kinds of pets, almost any beast in the wild, but they
all eat different things, have different abilities, and different talents.
Refer to a website if you want to better understand what kind you want.

You can make interesting combos with pets, such as the ones that can go 
stealth. For these you may have to micromanage, but you can use the Attack 
command and then you attack when they are close to the target. These pets 
benefit once they gain a talent point from the Dash ability, then you don't
have to micromanage as much. Ctrl + 1 is the attack command to send your pet
ahead right before you attack for maximum distance.

Also keep in mind you can stable pets, but more space becomes very expensive.

Always keep track of your ammo, even if you have to grab lower level ammo. It's
better to have more than less.

Finally, you have three weapons you'll change throughout the game: guns, bows,
and crossbows. Arrows and bullets do not level with each other, so it can make
sense to change as the ammo levels, so keep an eye out for the levels of 
weapons and ammo, especially crafted ammo.

*NOTE: I believe at 40+ you can exchange thorium ammo from a guy in the Iron-
forge inn.*


Your shots and stings can be fired while moving, but of course all ranged 
attacks require at least 5 yards of distance to fire.

Stings - only one of each, and though your serpent sting may be the most-used,
it's a matter of knowing your opponent that will determine the use of your 
others. Paladins should get hit with the viper sting, ranged attackers should
have the scorpid sting, and so on.

Shots - early on your really only have the Arcane Shot to cause instant damage,
but all shots cause damage, and you can gain Aimed Shot through talents. 
Concussive Shot is used on just about every enemy you face, especially if you
draw aggro away from your pet, or to slow fleeing enemies.

Traps - the trap to use relies purely on your enemies. If they are stronger
then you could lay a freezing trap, let them get close, and then disengage to
gain distance. A fire trap would be better for killing a much stronger enemy.

Aspects - I bind these to the number keys because you'll change these more 
often than you would think. Hawk is your base aspect, viper to regain mana,
beast to finish off close enemies, monkey to avoid attacks, cheetah to move
faster when not under attack, and so on.

Tracking - you get a small perk for tracking the type you're attacking, but
other than that you can see that type on your mini map. This helps in 
battlegrounds, and don't forget to switch off of tracking hidden once the
rogues reveal themselves, or if there aren't any.


It's had to justify the other two trees, because Marksmanship is clearly the
best option. However, PvP hunters may find it interesting to try out of 
dual spec Survival. Survival is not just melee moves, though there are a few
good ones in there. It allows you a few better ways to stay alive against 
other players. 

Beast Mastery is designed to be your anti-caster class, while Survival is more
for handling melee players. Marksmanship is the best all around class for 
both PvP and PvE. But if there is any secondary tree to take on, it's Survival
for sure.

Death Knight


With Wrath of the Lich King installed and with a level 55 character you can
create DK's on any server. They are level 55 heroic characters who go through
a very unique campaign to get geared and learn a little backstory behind the
Scourge and Lich King. Sadly, you can only have one per server, so think before
you make one and before you decide what you will do with it.

The training takes place over different periods of time in a little area which
is in the eastern are of the Eastern Plaguelands; I say this because during the
game you should notice how the area is now abandoned. You can drop any of the
papers you find from drops, and you can use the Crusader Skulls to make free
potions before you leave. You also cannot leave the areas until you complete
all the quests, and you want to because each quest rewards you with a blue
item to go into each item slot, as well as talent points.

You learn that DK's use Runes to limit abilities. You have two of each rune
type: blood, frost, and plague. Using a rune or two sets off about a 5 second
or so cooldown. So basically the runes just mean you can't spam one move over
and over. By focusing in one type or the other you essentially cut your 
effectiveness down to the two runes of that type, but it's not like abilities
don't split runes either.

DK's are heroic tanks that can dual-wield, use 2H swords or axes, but cannot 
use ranged weapons or shields. You can also hold a sigil to provide some
benefit. Of course there are better tank classes, but DK's can avoid a lot of 
attacks and only lack the ability to hold a shield, though most DK's will
choose to focus on DPS and self-healing. Lastly, you have the ability to give
your weapons a rune, this is called Runeforging.

DK's are based in Ebon Hold, a floating platform over the Eastern Plaguelands.
You use your deathgate power to get there. From here you can buy corpse dust
for ghouls and forge runes on your weapons, as well as seek training.

There are two glyphs of choice for ghouls. One minor glyph lets you summon
ghouls without a body or dust. Another will give your ghoul a 40% boost in 
health and strength. The free ghoul glyph can be used by anyone, even for the 
two minute ghouls.


As mentioned, you have two runes of each type, meaning you can use up both
of one then start using a few others until your runes of choice are ready to
go. Be careful not to get twisted by the abilities that use one of two kinds of
runes, if you think before you use these you may allow better combos. 

Icy Touch and Plague Strike both cause diseases. These cause damage and effects
but also can feed some of your abilities. The Pestilence and Blood Boil combo
allows you to spread the diseases and then explode them for a nice area of 
effect damage. Death and Decay is your only other AoE spell early on.

No matter how you choose to fight, death grip, chains of ice, and death coil 
are your main abilities. Death grip is your only true ranged attack, but it
only brings enemies closer. Chains of ice can be used to trap fleeing enemies
and mainly in PvP to stop someone from moving around. Death coil is used either
to heal or as a ranged attack. It's easy to overlook, but the coil is one
of only a few abilities to use your runic power, so use whenever you can.

You have three talent trees: Unholy, Blood, and Frost. Everyone chooses blood
because you heal yourself. Unholy is the next popular choice because not only
can you have a pet, you also move faster. I however like Frost because I think
the abilities are easier to use, and a you have more runic power.

If you want to focus on one tree, here are things you need to know about the
start of each: 

Unholy - 5 for better dodge, and on the second tier you can reduce the cooldown
of your Death Grip. If you don't want that, consider getting the grip glyph 
which will erase the cooldown upon a XP or honor kill.

Blood - you mainly want the Rune Tap ability, which costs 11 points to get to.
if you go all in for the other trees, you'll still have enough to pick this
up by 80.

Frost - must get the extra max runic power, then maybe some of the frost damage
abilities if you're partial to Icy Touch and Chains of Ice.

Last thing I'll say is that Icy Touch and CoI are nice ranged abilities, and 
both can cause damage if you buy the Icy Touch glyph. There is also a 
Pestilence glyph which makes that ability a little more useful, especially
when you consider that some of your abilities require diseases. Also don't 
forget your non-damage glyphs which put nice effects on you.


I only have a level 20 lock, so at this time I have little to say.


Half mage and mostly damage over time (DoT) DPS, with special attention payed
to their Fear abilities. Damage over time means they will cast a spell and 
the affliction will do the damage to the target. With your DoT spells on the 
target you can then use Fear to chase them away from you, or against the 
environment you can use other spells for more damage. 

You can also specialize in your minion or your pure casting spells. Through
your Life Tap you can convert health into mana, so rather than go all in for
intellect you can just get stamina. 


Affliction enhances all your DoT spells. Demonology increases the power of
your demons, health, and conjured items. And Destruction makes your casting 
spells much better. So locks have many ways in which to create DPS. 

PvP is probably best for affliction, because you can just hit them with three
afflictions, fear, and they will not last long. Demons are best for PvE, and
casting is for whatever.

* 6. PvP  (PVP6666 )                                                          *

PvP Tips

Almost all of PvP boils down to stunning, fearing, or freezing someone. Once
you do these to a player they are almost certainly dead. Only healers can 
stay alive for very long, while paladins can stay alive for any amount of
time and cause lots of damage, so go figure.

Everyone has a way to break these effects using the trinkets sold by PvP 
vendors in your faction's capitol where you buy the other gear.

The main idea in PvP is to not take on a losing fight. Sometimes you just don't
know how dangerous a fight is, but you never want to take on more enemies
than you are bringing. It's a bad idea to think that just because you see 
enemies you should attack them. BUT of course this does not apply to pallys,
as they can stay alive and hold 4 players on them, all by themselves for a 
good amount of time. 

Part of PvP is the art of decoying/baiting. Just as you don't want to engage in
a losing battle, players are also a bit to anxious to chase down a single
enemy with four players. If there are 10 players in a line casting or fighting
enemies in front of them, and you ride your mount straight through that line,
I promise that over half of the group will turn around and either focus on 
you or if they can't stop you they will chase you. Most Arathi, SotA, and AV
turtlings can be helped by just not fighting and breaking enemy focus by 
just spreading out.

*NOTE: Turtle means when one team is stuck in one spot, it means that team has
lost 99.99% of the time. 0.01% of the time all the turtling players will 
realize that spreading out and not engaging the attackers head on is the only
way to take the enemy off of you.*

There is a hard-to-explain key to battlegrounds, and that is one team's overall
focus. Take Arathi Basin for example. The horde team may be better (aka they
have more pallys), but if their best players are roaming in one large group
and hording to one node while the best ally players are spread out, then the
horde team will lose because while they may have more kills, they are not 
defending. While conversely, if they are spread out and failing to solo a 
node and dying in the process, then their team will be behind a lot for it.
Take 3 rogues for example trying to solo nodes and failing, they are making it
12 vs 15 for the rest of the map. Basically, all nodes really need equal 
amounts defenders and attackers, and whichever side wins more battles, that 
team will win quickly.

And all the BGs will say this, but defense is the key. All nodes, which are 
areas fought over, should not be left unguarded, even if it's just one player
to stall the enemy from a capture. However, 3 players defending a node
either squashes solo attempts, or has the other team ask for more attackers.
If 5 players attack 3 players at one node, sure, the 5 will win, but for the 
rest of the map it's 10 on 12. 


A twink is any character who is used purely as a source of PvP fun. You can 
twink at levels 19, 29, 39, 49, 59, 69, and I think 79. I think all battle-
grounds go from the 0 level to the 9 level, but I believe Alterac Valley just
takes anything from 0 to 0. This means that it's possible to twink at 60 and 
70 for the only purpose of playing Alterac Valley, which may be a very fun
option depending on your battlegroup.


You can check the battlegroupings of the realms via the World of Warcraft 
website, but that is of little use unless you really get into your battle-
grounds and test them out yourself. I'm not saying to take on the faction in
a group that is favored, I'm just saying to avoid being heavily outnumbered.
Perhaps I'm just more into AV than you may be, but if a battlegroup is not
balanced at one level, it probably isn't at any.

To Twink, or not to Twink

Your battlegroup and what you plan to twink for will determine if you twink or
not. The purpose of a twink is purely for PvP, with only questing, professions,
and gold making up to the twinking level. Some twinks can even do a few quests 
or dungeons for better gear, but really you can't go over 75% of your XP bar
or else you may be pushing it.

One factor in twinking is the amount of play at that level. If the wait times 
are long and sometimes of day are completely void of players, then it may be
the wrong level or battlegroup to twink in. 

Another is your progress in the game and on the server you choose to make a 
twink. Trust me, twinking with your second character may cause you to rethink
twinking for a need for a source of professions or just to have another level
80 toon if your main doesn't work out. If you spend a lot of time on your 
twink with success you could find that its style of play better suits what your
main may be. 

Also keep in mind what options are open to you at the given level. Gear and the
battlegrounds may play in role in what level you choose to twink at. Keep in
mind that the higher up in levels you go, the more expensive the gear at the
auction house and the less you can count on there being more twinks for your

Building ur Twink

Every class can be twinked. From my experience it's the healers, druids, 
rogues, and paladins that can have the greatest impact on a fight. Hunters are
the easiest twinks, but please try to be more creative than that... don't look
at me!

You really only need the gathering professions or engineering, depending on
the desired level. Given that you've made several characters from the many 
races, you should know the best places to level and get gear quickly. All of 
the gathering professions give a nice bonus:

Herbs - self heal
Mine - stamina boost
Skin - critical bonus

Of course since you must level to advance your professions, you are limited in
how much these can help you. And 90% of the good PvP players use engineering,
so take that as it is; it's also the most expensive profession because you 
won't earn back quite as much money as with enchanting.

Once you reach your desired level the only thing left is gear. A nice idea is
to consult fellow twinks of your level, you should see them from your server if
you keep playing a lot, or ask if there are any in chat. 

Not all twink gear is at the 9 level, some may be as low as in the 7 spot. You
can also search for quests rewards you could solo where you don't earn a ton of

Aside from raid gear, which would probably require a whole raid meant to help
you in your twinking efforts (raids would start with the 50 bracket and up),
the only other form of gear is dungeon drops and rewards. The art of dungeon
runs for twinks is to go in naked, bring a high level that can revive, and 
die a lot until you reach the desired boss; you don't release your soul in 
death of course.

Enchanting your gear is less tricky that it was before. Before a recent patch
there were a lot of good enchants for twinks, but now almost all of them have
been wiped. You are left with just a select number of enchants for your gear,
and make sure you get them.

Don't forget to consult which sets of cards net good rewards - basically you'll
either need to be a scribe or buy them, just make sure they are for your level.

Finally, there are PvP vendors who sell blue gear in exchange for your marks of
honor from the battleground of choice. Just find the quartermaster for the BG
in which you've earned multiples of 20 marks, and you can get good gear from
all of them if you play all the available BGs.

Battlegrounds & Wintergrasp


The key to all combat maps is defense. Only in Warsong would all offense have
a chance of winning, but even then it's risky. There are currently 5 battle-
grounds and one battle zone. They open up as you level, and most have a place
in the world where you can go to trade your marks for items. 

There are three entry points to the BG's: from the zone they are based in, 
from the battle terraces in cities, or by opening the player vs player tab on
your toolbar as of the latest patch (the easiest way).

We will cover them as they open up to you.


Name: Warsong Gulch
Min Level: 10
Team size: 10
Objective: Capture the flag three times

WSG is the smallest and most competitive map in the game. However, there are 
countless strategies to both defend and attack the flags. 

There are three base strategies to this map: half and half on offense and 
defense, 3 on D 7 on O, and middle control. I exclude all on O because when a
rogue caps the flag and you can't get it back then you will revert to one of 
the other strategies.

If you want to win this on easy mode, play on horde because they always twink
this BG at any level and a single blood elf pally can solo a flag at any time.
It's most common to cap a flag with one tank/pally and a healer against a 
small defense. But only a huge group of 5 with two heals can expect to cap a 
flag against heavy defense.

Once a flag is taken then the flag carrier (FC) must return to their flag room

Offense - depends on the enemy defense. If they have heavy defense you need
to think up some strategy to break through. Smashing through and leaving only
works with heals or a twink to grab the flag. Mostly you'll need to clear the 
FR first, then run. If your group is good for directions, you could send in
one or two to fake cap the flag and lure the defense away from the flag base,
and when they drop it a second team can swoop in for the true cap and take off
in the other direction. 

Defense - there are tons of attack points, but the defense can only work in the
FR. It's best to stay out of sight to avoid warlock and hunter attacks from
the roof or ledge. Hunters should set a frost or ice trap in front of the flag,
but out of reach of a rogue who could disarm it. Healers first, although it's
always best to just keep the guards away from the FC, because if it makes it
into the field then the healers can just rez and get back on the FC. Basically,
if you the FC gets out of the FR, you only have 50 yards to kill the FC or 
you'll suffer a cap.

Getting your flag back - if the defense wipes you have to call where the flag
was last seen going, such as the tunnel (tun), ramp, or graveyard (GY). Unless
you have solid players in the enemy base, your only hope to get the flag back
is while it's in the field. If there are healers or casters, chances are you
won't get the flag to drop if you attack the FC only. Slow effects should be 
poured on the FC but hard DPS must be applied to the healers. Outnumbered there
is not much chance to get the flag back, you really need either all the help
to fall off the FC or some to keep the FC in place. When it drops, get it 
quickly or another player may grab it.

Capturing the flag - as the FC you can't stealth, use a mount, or use several
other tricks (really depends on your class), and hopefully the ones around you
know to not cast powerful spells on you. Getting out of the enemy keep usually
requires your teammates' help no matter what. This is either by them holding
the enemies at bay or having guards and heals.

Hiding the flag - when both flags are in their bases there are a number of 
places to go. The graveyard is a safe place because players rez there and you
can bail onto the field and have all the attackers still in the base. The roof
or the ramp to the roof are the only places with one entry point, and you can
bail into the FR. Finally is the FR where you can hide in any number of places,
all of which will allow multiple attack points. The only advantage of being in
the FR over the others is that at the other points you may not make it back to 
cap the flag if a player caps your flag. After a while the FC's will become 
weak, and even weaker after a time, so once this happens you can pour all 
damage onto the FC and force a healer to pick up the flag.

This is the BG I've had the most failure at. There will always be a BE pally or
twink on the horde side, so again, if you want to play this on easy, go horde.


Name: Arathi Basin
Min Level: 20
Team size: 15
Objective: Control nodes until you amass 2000 points

AB is the most even of the BGs because one player cannot determine the outcome.
There are five nodes, one near each base, two on the sides, and one in the 
middle. Usually you just need to control three to win, but once you can 
consistently control four then you can try for the fifth, and with all five you
will win the game in a matter of seconds.

Nodes create 10 points about every five seconds, but not while contested so 
until a flag is under one side's control should it be fought for or defended.

Offense - it's never wise for everyone to be on offense, but if the other side
has all on offense then you can do single-player caps of nodes. Rogues and 
druids can excel at AB because they can sneak around and cap nodes once they 
are left alone. Even more so when a flag is fought for, if the defense moves
off the flag then a rogue can sneak around and cap behind them. If the fight is
at the flag then you want to try to cap it. Attempting to cap the flag will if
nothing else pull the enemies on you and hopefully left the others attack. And
there is no limit to how far five horde players will chase one player, so feel
free to lure others away (I guess alliance do it too). Also the strategy of 
attacking a node from one side while others slip in from the other also works,
but is seldom used.

Defense - with more nodes you can just keep one on un-contested flags, but
of course heavily defend nodes under constant attack. It really depends on how
well the other team is. If they can't seem to hold any flags then you can 
probably go for the five node cap. But if your teams keep swapping nodes and
the other team is solid, just bank on holding three nodes and defending them
with three players.

Golden Rule - if you aren't fighting to cap or fighting near a flag, then you
are not playing the battleground. This applies to all BGs, but more so in this
one because of the possibility someone can cap behind you.

"At least we have the stables" - yes, a guild name, but it's true. The number
one way teams lose is when only one node is left under your control and every-
one tries to defend the last node. Sorry to tell you, but no matter how hard 
you fight for one node you are not going to win the game if you don't get 
more. However, the opposite is true. If the other team converges on one node 
then only a few need to slip through and cap all the other nodes, or if 
anything else pull the attackers away and let your noob pals free.


Name: Alterac Valley
Min Level: 51
Team size: 40
Objective: Deplete the other team of 600 reinforcements, or kill their boss

There is a lot going on here. First is the fighting, and usually the more 
powerful team will win. More so than other BGs, pure power can win this map
90% of the time; meaning 10% of the time can superior strategy beat better

Towers/Bunkers - There are two outside of each teams base. These provide 
	powerful buffs to the boss, so they must be capped. Aside from GY's,
	these are usually left alone after a cap, so they are almost always 
	easy to cap with four players. If you cap them, be sure to ask for 
	help. Four players can hold a node most of the time. You must hold them
	until they burn, or recap them if they are yours.
Captains - There is Galv for the horde and Balinda for the alliance. Galv is 
	farther south while Balinda is nearer the middle. These guys provide
	support for the boss as well, so kill them. Usually easy with just five
	or so players and no enemy players near.
Graveyards - Easy to overlook control of these, but if all are capped then 
	everyone goes back to their starting cave. Your starting blitz will be
	for nothing if you hold no graves and the other players stop you.
Quests - There are quests you can get from the staging area, and then more
	from your base. Quests from the staging area ask you to enter a cave 
	to get a flag so you can get a trinket, and others ask you to attack
	the nodes and such. Quests from your base require you gather supplies
	from fallen players to equip your NPCs and some more that require a 
	lot of effort, but I've never seen them used, so I won't even mention
	them. Refer to for info on those quests, you'll be the
	only one doing them if you do.
Base - Each team's base has a graveyard, two towers/bunkers, and the boss.
	Once you cap the base's GY you probably need anywhere from 10-20 
	players to attack the last boss and hold the base. Beware rogue caps
	of the nodes, they are quite common.
Boss - The boss is the most common way to win. He has guards equal to all of
	his team's nodes, and buffs for some nodes. The boss will not last 
	against a solid group of healers and DPS, even with some buffs and 
	guards. But ideally you want all four bunkers/towers destroyed before
	you go all in.

There are many ways to go about this map, tons. You could blitz and hope enough
of the other team get stuck fighting you, you could play more defense and 
bleed out a win, or you could do any number of things where holding the nodes
will help you win. Above all, it's still about defending the flags you have and
the ones you capture until they burn.

Advanced tips includ quickly capturing and defending the graveyard in the
enemy's base, which ensures your attack on the boss will have a nearby zerg-
point, or allow more players to appear here for the final push.

Another is making sure you kill enemies early on. The reason is that if they
were on the attack, they will appear in a defensive graveyard and not be a part
of the attack. Combine with this solid efforts at holding and defending all
the nodes you can will severely stretch the other team's forces. 

It's very interesting to see both sides just let each other run to the other
team's base. What's happens is the same as always, the team that defends one
node, recaps one bunker, takes back just one tower, usually means they will


Name: Eye of the Storm
Min Level: 61
Team size: 15
Objective: Amass 2000 points from flag captures and controlling nodes

This BG is Warsong and Arathi in one. You have two options to get points, 
take the flag from the middle and capture it at your nodes, or simply hold 
nodes. This BG is more about NOT fighting on the roads more than others because
you hold nodes simply by standing on them. It's very common for teams to keep
swapping nodes four nodes back and forth, and that's where the flag comes into

The flag is open for either team to take in the middle, and it takes a while
to pick it up, so there are usually big fights for the control of the narrow
area the flag is on. 

The nodes are more important than the flag, and if you abandon the flag and 
control all four nodes then you will win in no time. The flag is simply a 
way to unbalance games with even teams. Besides, you can't cap a flag if you 
have no nodes. 

Ideally you can hold three nodes and not defend the middle one. No matter what,
both sides will be in constant battle for many different things and hopefully
you fight for the right things.


Name: Strand of the Ancients
Min Level: 71
Team size: 15
Objective: Touch the orb in the relic chamber

This map is almost the same as Wintergrasp, almost. The difference is that up
until the final wall there are two lanes to attack. The attackers have the 
advantage because they can spread out or focus on one side, and if the 
defenders do not fall back with the attackers then the game is basically 

The defenders have the advantage when they fall back to the third wall in 
time. If the third wall is defended and the attackers are not that strong,
there is almost no way to break through. 

I believe Alliance always starts on attack, then they play defense for the
next round. The time the next team has to attack is set by how fast the first
team took the chamber, or ten minutes if there was no cap. I have not seen a 
game where neither team could get the chamber, but if that happens then the
game ends with no winner, only memories.

Rules for winning SotA:

	*Vehicles are for attacking gates, nothing else; if you use them to 
	only attack players then you will lose.

	*Turrets will eat tanks, but don't stay on them when your gate is

	*Graveyards are not important.

	*Shops open beyond the first wall after a while once the first wall
	is broken. Use those vehicles and also the ones that spawn at the 

	*Rogues and everyone else can grab bombs and run them to gates, place
	them, get out of the way, and cause a decent amount of damage. This
	helps when that third wall is defended. Bombs are at the sides of 
	each gate, far to the sides.

	*If your intial attack focuses on one side and the defense does not 
	pick it up, you will win.

	*Run bombs if you have stealth, you don't even need to dismount to
	pick them up. Just run up to the gate, plant, and go get more. This 
	is best when at the final gate and it's a stalemate.

	*For the touch of the relic, either send in a pally or run with a 
	rogue, anything really.


Name: Wintergrasp
Min Level: 55?, but should be 80 (it's basically 80 only)
Team size: As many as are on the server
Objective: Hold or defend the keep until time runs out

This is set in the world of Northrend, an actual zone you can fly in and out
of at any time. There are 2.5 hours between battles, and the faction defending
is the faction that won the last battle. However, there are four things to
keep track of during the fight.

1. Your rank. I say this because you can sit in WG and do nothing for a single
mark of honor. If you win and you're at full rank, you will get three. However,
the more important thing is that your rank determines what vehicles you can
build at the shops. You advance in rank by killing five enemies, either NPCs
or players. The order is catapults, demolishers, and siege engines, with 
increasing power and armor for each but decreasing speed.

2. Control of shops. You cannot build vehicles without shops. Each shop allows
you a total of four vehicles, but only the defenders can hold all six with
two being in the keep. Shops can be captured by standing at them with more
players or destroying them and standing at them. There are other reasons to
hold the shops, such as the next point...

3. The southern towers. If you are attacking the keep, then you must defend
these three towers. If you are defending the keep, you must destroy them. Aside
from a tower bonus, which is 5% for each one, the game is shortened by 10 
minutes if all three are down. The bonus transfers to the defenders if they
take them down. Near these towers are two shops, so if the defenders control
those and the attackers do not make an effort to reclaim the south, then there
is little the attackers can do to prevent the towers' destruction.

4. The keep. This is the least important thing because you should get a high
rank before making vehicles, the total vehicles from the shops determines who
will win, and losing the south will give way to losing one of the forward shops
and having a huge force attacking the attackers. But for those that start
attacking the keep, which is not wise, or if you do get to attacking then you
should attack at least in two places. It requires a superior team and more
of the other factors in order to push through the front. You break down one
wall, another, and then the relic chamber gate. Once a wall is broken then
all the defenders should fall back to the courtyard, but if they don't need to 
fall back then they have the advantage.

Basically the map is meant to force players to spread out, not just focus on
the keep. Defenders lose if they don't have enough and are sitting behind the 
keep. Attackers lose if they neglect to defend their towers and lose control
of the shops. 

From my experience, this map is horrible because of a number of factors. One
is that most players do not know the map. Two is that there is a Tenacity 
buff for the outnumbered side, which is supposed to account for the lack of 
players, but not all players in WG are playing, some are fishing or collecting
mats (such as bots). Finally are the spies, and yes they do exist. Players will
build a catapult and drive it to some hidden area and leave it there so that
that faction will have less vehicles. It happens for all BGs, but this map 
affects more than hurt feelings. 


	*Vault of Archavon raid opens inside the chamber, which only has 
	two bosses, but great lootz.
	*Collection of Stone Keeper Shards from all bosses in Northrend. Helps
	buy stuff in WG.
	*WG quartermaster sells stuff for WG marks of honor and SK shards. 

Daily Quests, from various NPC's either at your camp or in the keep, they
award honor, SK shards, and gold:


	*Kill 10 players and/or NPCs

	*Destroy 3 vehicles

	*Destory a southern tower

	*Defend or pilot vehicles that destroys structures

	*Several collection quests meant for times when the battle is not on

* 7. Author Info / Copyright                                                  *


Credits - for basically half of what I've learned



Please contact me if you need any help, if you want to praise me, if you want
to talk, or if you want to ask a question. All help is appreciated, but that
doesn't mean it will be included in the guide. No response either means I've
heard it before, I've already done it, or I just can't help you - replying 
saying "I can't help you" makes little sense. 

Flamers may or may not get a response, most likely not. Please, I'm not here to
hate on people or start fights, so even if you disagree with me but aren't 
looking to flame, just be polite. Trying to say I fail is a waste of your time,
so don't even try.

My email:

Title of your email should be: 		WoW

Extra points for good spelling. So anything you want to send, email away.

PS - To GameFAQ's users, if you like the guide, click "recommend" at the top
of the guide, but only if you like it.

PPS - I cannot fix bugs, glitches, or achievements/trophies not hitting. I
mean, I can't write some code and hack your machine or anything, and speaking
of which, I can't fix technical issues either. That should be a given, but 
these things I get asked a lot and I can never fix them for you.



I have other guides floating around too. They are:

Resident Evil 4
Dead Rising
Gears of War
Lost Planet
Rainbow Six Vegas
TES IV: Oblivion
Shivering Isles
Knights of the Nine
The Darkness
Halo 3
Half-Life 2
HL2: Episode One
HL2: Episode Two
Call of Duty 4
Assassin's Creed
Mass Effect
Advance Wars: Days of Ruin
Perseus Mandate
Sam & Max Episode 203
Devil May Cry 4
God of War: Chains of Olympus
Rainbow Six Vegas 2
Grand Theft Auto 4
Condemned 2: Bloodshot
Metal Gear Solid 4
Alone in the Dark (360)
NCAA Football 09
Madden 09
Dead Space
Gears of War 2
Prince of Persia (2008)
Call of Duty: World at War
Resident Evil 5



I've also been published in GamePro magazine, June 2007. Pretty cool if you ask
me, and all because I write these little guides.

Also, I am in the October issue as well, which should be out at the time of 
this guide's release. At least I ain't a one hit wonder.

In a nice surprise, I didn't even know I was in the March 2008 issue of 
GamePro, but I am. Maybe I'll be in more I don't know about...

Look to for a slew of other articles written by me in the 
featured article section.



Here is my list of sites:

GameFAQs (main host site)
GamersTemple (
CheatCodeCentral (
and more here and there, too many to keep up with
and even a few foreign ones too!

*NOTE: There are many more with single guides, and then others with a few, and
some that I just don't keep track of.*

All other sites must ask permission if they want this. All I ask is that the
guide be ad-free and in this text format.

And if you want to make a donation at my site for hosting a guide, that is 
fine too.



Here is my website:

You'll find all my other guides here too and perhaps something else you may



I'm trying to up the quality of my guides all around. Currently I am trying to
find options to make a SOLID website with users and boards and all that good
stuff. With every guide, at some point, I want to cover at least their hard
mode if not a little more. 

I ask for donations not just because I've helped you, but also because I want
to buy things like a pdf maker, image editor, video capture card, and funds 
toward getting someone to make me a nice website. 

For the short term all I want is to make color guides with pics, and then 
make videos. Although the vids are iffy since the pics would do, and it would
take forever for me to upload those vids.

You can give whatever you want, all of it helps. 

... maybe a little of it will pay for Warcraft time, just a little though.



This guide may not be reproduced under any circumstances except for personal, 
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publicly without advance written permission. Use of this guide on any other web
site or as a part of any public display is strictly prohibited, and a violation
of copyright.

All trademarks and copyrights contained in this document are owned by their 
respective trademark and copyright holders.

Copyright 2009 Brad Russell